Wittenham Clumps
/Here in the south, whilst we might be blessed with beautiful, pastoral landscapes, ancient sweeping chalkland vistas, acres of woodland and stunning coastlines, we're not over endowed with high hills. There are the Mendips (325m), the North Wessex Downs (297m), the Quantocks at 389m, the Purbeck Hills at 208m and Dunkery Beacon and High Willhays on Dartmoor peak at 600m and 621m respectively. Nearest to us are the Chiltern Hills which are lovely, but they come in at a lofty 267m. For those of us who have a passion for the high fells, this is all a little frustrating.
However, a mere half hour drive from us lies a pair of wooded, chalk hills towering over the South Oxfordshire landscape at a whopping 120m called Wittenham Clumps. The 'clump' refers to the wooded portion on top of each hill, but they are officially called the Sinodun Hills; Sinodun meaning old fort. Named Round Hill and Castle Hill, there is a bronze age hill fort on Castle Hill and evidence of a long occupation. Time Team dug here for a while and discovered some sort of Roman villa with a mosaic floor.
I remember the Poem Tree. In the 19th century, a Joseph Tubbs carved quite a long poem into the trunk of one of the trees on Round Hill (the Earth Trust’s website has the poem detailed in full - see www.earthtrust.org.uk) but even 20 years ago it was difficult to read. Sadly the tree died long ago and has collapsed fairly recently. A couple of other folkloric things of interest are the Money Pit - a hollow where a raven is said to have buried its treasure and some of the trees on the top of Round Hill are known as the Cuckoo Pen - legend being that if you trap a Cuckoo there, it will be endless summer.
Locally known as the Berkshire Bubs (the county boundary was moved a few decades ago) or Mother Dunch's Buttocks (after a local lady of the manor), they are something of a landmark, standing proud of the Oxfordshire plain, close to the River Thames. What they do do, is provide a viewpoint for a fabulous 360 degree panorama over Oxfordshire and the start or end point of a series of lovely walks. We have been going since we were kids as Dad always only really enjoyed a walk if it had a view, something we've obviously inherited.
Surrounded by fields, it's a great place for families to picnic and very popular for kite flying, dog walking and Sunday afternoon strolling, but you can combine the clumps into much longer walks if you prefer and it really does make a lovely day out, especially in the spring when all the May blossom is at its frothy best. Nearby Dorchester is a beautiful little village with a huge Abbey, Wallingford a pretty market town with a long history and there are scores of lovely villages in rural settings to visit en route or stop for a wander. The Thames runs nearby, but it’s the gentle, meandering greeny blue Thames, with fish, birdlife and tiny beaches.
So whilst you may not have to pack a rucksack and take walking poles, I will always have a soft spot for the Clumps - a little piece of high ground punching way above its weight. Or height.