North in November

We have just returned from a wonderful ten days in the Lakes and it was a real tonic after heavy colds for both of us. An afternoon in Lancaster to break the the journey up saw us walking into the city beside the River Lune and exploring the castle for the first time, which was really interesting.

Basing ourselves in a sumptuously appointed flat in Ambleside, we took the week at an easier pace than in times past. We saw this trip as a chance to savour those areas we really love and hadn't visited for a while as our previous few visits had either been to the far eastern or far western fringes of the Lakes. We explored Ambleside in depth, noting small changes here and there, and shopping in the array of artisan and outdoor shops. We took walks from our door to places we hadn't seen or been to before. A late afternoon walk to Low and then High Sweden Bridges capped off the end of Scandale for us, having previously passed High Sweden Bridge on our way down the length of Scandale in 2016, when we only really took a brief look at the end of a long day climbing Red Screes, Middle Dodd and Little Hart Crag. This time, the mists descended and it was wonderfully atmospheric and quiet, although it began to rain heavily just as we passed the Golden Rule. We also climbed up towards Todd Crag, but carried on along a rough path towards Loughrigg, mushroom spotting along the way, before descending via the lower flanks of Todd Crag, again in drizzly rain and fading light. We walked through Rothay Park, marvelling at the force of the little River Rothay after recent rains and the flooding on the Under Loughrigg Road by Miller Bridge. We walked up to Stock Ghyll Force, having only walked to the half way point before and never to the top of the ravine where the waterfall was in full, roaring spate. We also visited Grasmere where we had lunch at Freda & Rays, had a wander round Windermere and a very busy Keswick busy gearing up for Christmas, with decorations in shop windows and the main lights being strung across the Moot Hall.

Continuing climbing the Outlying fells, we visited Whitbarrow Scar from Witherslack, dodging the rain showers on the delightful summit which we had to ourselves, but getting caught on the descent. We parked and re-climbed Scout Scar, simply because we were nearby and we'd love it when first visited in 2017. The rain started falling heavily as we began climbing, and a squall of sleety rain and strong, freezing wind hit us on the summit, so, after sheltering in the Mushroom for ten minutes, we went straight back to the car again to thaw out and dry off!

We ascended Newton Fell South from the village of Lindale and had atmospheric views over Morecambe Bay from the surprisingly chilly summit, we re-climbed Orrest Head as it had been eight years since we'd been there and it was wonderful to see 'where it all began' for Alfred Wainwright again. We loved that the paths are now properly wheelchair friendly so everyone can enjoy the scenery. We extended the walk by heading north over rolling fields and were rewarded with lovely pastoral views towards Lake Windermere, seen from a slightly different and new angle. We parked in High Sawrey and re-climbed Claife Heights on a beautiful autumn day; sunny, warm, a hint of a cool breeze and lovely colours in the woods. The simple walk gently ascended through tiny pine trees and heather and coppery bracken, looking very Scottish, with lovely Windermere views. The summit and surrounding area had been deforested since our last visit, so we found the trig point easily this time; something that had eluded us in 2015 when we failed to find it, or even see it, amongst the pine trees.

We journeyed up to the far north to the quiet village of Blindcrake basking in the sun of a spell of incredibly warm and dry weather to climb Clint's Crags; another that had eluded us a number of years ago, when we thought better of crossing the open fellside with a dog, a herd of cows and one very large bull for company! This time, the walk was bovine free, easy and enjoyable and the panorama magnificent over Bassenthwaite Lake, stretching from Grasmoor to Binsey. We went further north still, to the most northerly outlying fell in fact, Faulds Brow. The journey took us through villages and areas we had never visited before; High Ireby, Whelpo, Bothel, Caldbeck and across the stunning Uldale and Caldbeck Commons. Just incredible scenery and so totally different from the rest of Lakeland. The walk was simple and straightforward, undertaken in Tshirts and utter peace and solitude. The fell was small and simply attained, with beautiful views of the back of Carrock Fell and High Pike with Skiddaw in the distance. A walk round Caldbeck and a delicious lunch of roast beef at the Oddfellows Arms was the perfect end to the walk.

It was a wrench to leave this time; it had been so relaxing and full of spectacular scenery, as always, but also time spent exploring interesting, new places in lovely mild November weather. As I write this, it is cold, wet and raining, so I’m enjoying the warm memories.

Outdoor Ramblings

‘The greatest adventure is what lies ahead’