Great Outdoor Reads

There's nothing better than being cosy and warm by the fire in the winter, with the rain or snow lashing against the windows, a mug of hot tea and some dark chocolate digestives to hand enjoying a good book. I'm a voracious reader, getting through a book every three days or so, and here are a selection of really good stories I’ve read and thoroughly enjoyed.

Adventures of the Yorkshire Shepherdess by Amanda Owen

The third in the utterly delightful series of the Owen family and their remote hill farm in the Yorkshire Dales. A real James Herriott style read for today’s generation. Full of warmth, decency, family, hard work and simplicity, it’s a real tonic. She’s a lovely lady too; I met her after attending one of her talks this year.

The Living Mountain by Nan Shepherd

An absolute classic of mountain literature. Nan Shepherd recounts living and breathing her beloved Cairngorms in such a personal and evocative way as she pursued her quest to find the essence of the mountains.

The Bond by Simon McCartney

Bro bought this from the Kendal Mountain Festival a couple of years ago and it disappeared to the back of the bookcase until I dug it out at the beginning of this year. This is a really fabulous read about two epic Alaskan climbs and the ensuing determination, friendship, hardship, trust and courage. Brilliantly written and utterly absorbing. Can’t recommend it enough.

A Croft in the Hills by Katharine Stewart

A really gentle story of a family making a living on a croft with no previous experience at all. Told from today but looking back fifty or so years, it tells of hardships, but also details a simpler, happy family life with the characters, neighbours and friends they met along the way. Really lovely.

Thinking on my Feet by Kate Humble

I love Kate Humble; she’s so natural, down to earth and bubbly. Someone I think I’d like to be friends with. This is a lovely book about walking the Wye Valley Way as well as her thoughts, feelings and observations on her walks and runs over the course of a year both here and abroad. Chatty, warm and friendly, just as I imagine she is.

Walking Home by Simon Armitage

This is brilliant. Just so well written, I couldn’t put it down. It tells the story of his walk along the Pennine Way giving poetry recitals in the evenings to help with the finances. He describes in little snapshots the people he meets, how he feels, what he sees. Just delightful.

Ghosts of K2 by Mick Conefrey

This is a fascinating account of the race to be the first to conquer the world’s second highest and most dangerous mountain. Really well written and researched, it gives a huge amount of interesting facts and information surrounding this most deadly of races to the top. A great read.

The Ogre by Doug Scott

A fascinating account of Bonington and Scott’s dramatic first ascent of The Ogre. The first part of the book details the history of the local area, its people, other expeditions and the mountain, then the second half focusses on the ascent and epic descent. A really fascinating read. I have met Doug Scott as well. Just saying.

Captain Scott by Ranulph Fiennes

I'll admit to Captain Scott being a bit of a hero of mine as is Ranulph Fiennes, so the two together were always going to be a winning combination for me. Fiennes writes really well, in a clear, simple almost chatty style that brings the tragedy of this story to life in a way many other versions I've read, don't. Exceptionally well researched and well paced, the story builds dramatically to the tragic ending you know and dread is coming, to the extent I really couldn't put it down. Wonderful.

I hope this whets your literary appetite or might appeal to anyone else you know who loves the great outdoors.

All that remains for me to say this year is have a very

Merry Christmas and a Happy, healthy New Year.

28 Wainwright summits to go…..

Well, we spent two weeks in the Lakes from the middle of October, and it would be an understatement to say it was a good trip. It was one of our best.

Firstly and most importantly, Bro’s knee held up brilliantly. As a bit of background, he had had a flaring up of his knee three times since December last year meaning it swelled horribly, he couldn’t walk and it took a week to settle down. After this had happened three or four times he went to a specialist who diagnosed a torn meniscus.

Keyhole surgery in June fixed the knee, but he then had several bouts of terrible achilles pain meaning the same sort of swelling, great pain, inability to walk and a week to settle down, so he was eventually prescribed some seriously strong ibuprofen for acute tendonitis which immediately took the inflammation and the pain away. So far, so good.

We set off with a little trepidation about how he was going to be. Brilliant, that’s how. We did some big walks, but always with a day to rest in between. He was meticulous about stretching and strapping his ankle and using an ice bag in the evenings.

How was the weather? Brilliant, that’s how. Day after day of beautiful, warm sunny weather. Hardly a breath of wind on the summits. Perfect walking conditions, perfect views. We had a day of rain on one of our rest days and our last walk was drizzly which turned heavier and a little colder, but we still had the views.

magnificent views from causey pike

How were the walks? Brilliant, that’s how. We did 14 summits in 6 walks. We stayed in Buttermere for the first week which is most definitely our favourite area to walk in, and climbed Great Borne, Starling Dodd and Red Pike in one walk, Whiteless Pike and Rannerdale Knotts in another, and the sublime High Crag and High Stile ridge which we think is our favourite walk so far.

Utter perfection from High Stile

The second week was based in Keswick, and we tackled Causey Pike, Scar Crags and Sail on such a perfect day it could have been late summer. The views were staggering and Causey Pike is definitely one of my favourites. The next walk was Grasmoor which was very windy on the top with Wandope and Crag Hill (formerly Eel Crag), from Force Crag mine which was a wonderful day and fairly straightforward. We met some interesting people who’ve since become Facebook friends, and a young Canadian girl wearing a hat saying Canadian ski marathon team, so naturally she was up and down Grasmoor by the time we were half way up!

Our last walk was Seathwaite Fell which in all honesty, we weren’t going to tackle, but it meant we would end the year with less than 30 summits to do. It was a damp day which got wetter and colder, so thank goodness for the open fire at the Glaramara Hotel, where we thawed out with hot coffee and sandwiches.

Beautiful views from Crag Hill

On our rest days we wandered round Buttermere and Crummock, sat in the sun, explored Keswick, walked in the temperate rainforest that is Great Wood in Borrowdale, and enjoyed the wonderfully warm weather. We felt fit and healthy, tramped over 55 miles and really achieved much more than on this trip than others of late. Hopefully, we’ll finish the Wainwrights in two more weeks of walking. How good would that be? Brilliant, that’s how!

Such amazing weather

Sublime

A catch up in Cambridge

My oldest friend and Uni roommate and I meet once a year. We live about two and a half hours from each other and I do go and stay with her and her family, but we also have a weekend somewhere different occasionally. We’ve been to Liverpool, Bournemouth, Whitby, Skinningrove, Poole and Derbyshire amongst other places and it’s always lovely to catch up on the year. This time we decided on Cambridge; somewhere I’ve been to a couple of times before although I really don’t remember it, and somewhere my friend has never been.

In less than two hours on the train, I arrived (two and three quarters for her) and a short walk from the station took us into the city. Over the next two days we walked the beautiful narrow streets, beside the River Cam to and around Jesus Green, visited King’s College with its awe inspiring chapel and Ruebens painting behind the altar, enjoyed coffee people watching as the students arrived for Fresher’s Week and went punting on the backs which was magical.

Cambridge is such a stunning city. Small in scale, but big on beautiful old buildings, exquisite colleges, individual shops and wonderful parks and riverside walks, all in amongst a busy, buzzing atmosphere. It has such a lovely feel to it; very warm and gentle, helped by the weather which was perfect.

What an inspiring place to study; I almost found myself longing for my student days again. Well, almost.

Kings College Chapel

The stunning fan vaulted ceiling inside Kings College Chapel

Punts on the River Cam

The other Bridge of Sighs

Bicycles, everywhere!

The Land of the Rising Sun

Working in the travel industry, I’m often asked which is my favourite country. I love lots of different places for lots of different reasons; for relaxing, for culture, for landscape, for sightseeing, for beaches, for wildlife, for activity, but mostly I love places that are totally and utterly different to anywhere else, that have their own unique culture and identity and that are authentic and unspoiled. To that end, my top three countries for all those reasons are Tibet, Tanzania and Japan.

There are two times of the year recommended to visit Japan. Spring for ‘Hanami’ meaning cherry blossom viewing and Autumn for ‘Koyo’ meaning red leaf for the amazing colours. I’m lucky enough to have been in both seasons and I couldn’t pick between the two. Cherry Blossom is a time for families to picnic and party and appreciate the beauty of the flowers, so there is a joyous and celebratory atmosphere, but Autumn is staggeringly beautiful too; stunning colours and a time perhaps of quieter and calmer reflection.

Hiroshima peace park

beautiful quiet temples

Japan is such a contrast of the ultra modern and centuries old tradition; a model society of clean, quick, polite efficiency. The bullet train system is a wondrous thing. Spotless, punctual to the minute and quiet, it speeds you through the ever changing countryside in smooth, clean comfort. The driver bows as he boards, and the snack trolley is heralded by more bowing. All the seats spin to face the direction of travel and no one makes telephone calls or talks loudly in the quiet carriage. The underground system is surprisingly easy to use and is spotless. It even has glass display cases housing archaeological relics and art on the walls.

In Tokyo, beautiful wooden carved and painted temples sit amongst glass and steel skyscrapers and busy bustling streets filled with shops offering the latest technology or traditional tea sets. The people are incredibly respectful, shy, gentle and gracious in their help of the bewildered tourist trying to negotiate the underground system; no words, but a gentle tap on the arm and you’re led to where you want to be.

Kyoto is a delightful maze of narrow streets, tiny shops selling exquisite crafts (bring a spare bag - it’s all stunning) - we bought beautiful Kokeshi dolls, silk Kimonos, lacquerware, fabrics, inlaid bowls, exquisite omamori and chopsticks ; all superb quality at reasonable prices.

We admired Geishas wandering the streets of Kyoto in traditional dress, we walked the Nightingale floor at Nijo Castle, visited the Snow Monkeys bathing in the hot springs in Hell Valley, photographed a snow capped Mt Fuji, marvelled at stunning wooden temples in Nikko, relaxed in an Onsen, silently wandered the museum at Hiroshima and the Peace Park, went into the mountains at Nagano and explored Tokyo’s many districts. We saw Ikiabana, Sumo and Kabuki.

We ate beautiful fresh tempura prawns and sticky rice in tiny restaurants, sitting cross legged in booths high up in the roof, or at bar counters with just enough room for six people. We had tea in tiny cups overlooking perfect zen gardens, marvelled at the skill of the Teriyaki chef in a tiny wooden restaurant and tucked into delicious ramen noodles from a viewpoint high above Tokyo.

the snow monkeys bathing in the hot springs

utterly exquisite wooden temples

barrels of sake wrapped in straw as offerings at the meiji shrine

the shinkansen or bullet train

There is so much to see in Japan for all tastes, abilities and budgets. It has such a strong culture and identity that isn’t like anywhere else and that’s exactly why it’s in my top three.

The Land of Fire and Ice

As we lost our dog last year, this year we said we’d have a week abroad to have a slightly different type of holiday and we pondered for ages trying to decide where to go. I said perhaps we should go for culture as we spend most of our time away in the hills, but in the end we came full circle and settled on…….lakes and mountains!

We’d been to Iceland 21 years ago when I won a promotion through work which paid for the two of us to go for four nights. Then, we went in April when it was still pretty cold, stayed in Reykjavik and took a tour of the Golden Circle as it’s called, part way along the south coast. It takes in waterfalls, geysers, a glacier, some traditional turf roofed houses and some pretty churches.

This time we decided to go in July and self drive for added independence. I was more than a little nervous, given that Bro had had keyhole knee surgery 6 weeks before and wasn’t driving and I’d never driven abroad on the other side of the road before…

As it turned out, the driving was fine. There’s really only one ring road round the whole of Iceland which, for the most part is very straight and flat, has hardly any traffic and has a speed limit of 55mph. Hire cars all seem to be white and the locals have obviously learnt to give them a wide berth! We were lucky with the weather which was mainly very warm and still, but there was quite a bit of cloud cover. The scenery was wonderful.

Iceland is staggeringly beautiful and a little other-worldly in places. Obviously hugely volcanic, it has enormous, jagged, impenetrable central mountains, huge glacial valleys, spectacular waterfalls and awe-inspiring glaciers. We drove right along the south coast to the Skaftafell National Park, visiting black sand beaches with their puffin colonies (puffins were on my bucket list), and saw huge waterfalls. We walked to glaciers, marvelled at icebergs on the beach and wandered amongst miles of wild purple lupins with their minty fragrance.

We took the ferry across to the Westman Islands which was like visiting an island from Jurassic Park, climbed the volcano and watched the sea birds. We saw puffins, gannets, arctic terns, skuas, seals and pretty Icelandic ponies. We walked in lava fields, were amazed at the midnight sun and listened to icebergs calving while sitting in the sun.

It really was such a special, beautiful and unique place to visit.

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

Reynisfjara Beach

Beautiful wild lupins

Iceberg at Glacier Lagoon, Jokulsarlon

Icebergs on Diamond Beach

Svinafellsjokull Glacier - right behind our hotel!

Leaving the Westman Islands

The Cumbrian Rainforest

THE BORROWDALE WOODS

What springs to mind when you think of a rainforest? Steamy, hot and humid, a tropical wilderness of wildlife, unusual plants and gigantic bugs in a far flung corner of the world? Well, you’d be right of course, but we have rainforests in the British isles too, but temperate rather than tropical.

Aside from the high rainfall, the temperate or celtic rainforests are coniferous or broadleafed ancient trees covered with mosses and ferns and are in ‘moist oceanic regions’ in temperate areas such as New Zealand, south east Austrialia, north west US and the Atlantic islands of Madeira, the Azores and the Canary Islands They are also found on our western shores of Scotland, Snowdonia, the West Country, north and south Ireland and Cumbria. They are cool, shady and damp, have a huge diversity of life and are incredibly rare areas, heavily protected and internationally important.

They may be Sites of Special Scientific Interest, given the highest level of protection in Europe - the Special Areas of Conservation - but that doesn’t mean we can’t all enjoy them simply as beautiful old woods full of birds, insects and wildlife, especially Red Squirrels.

THE WOODS NEAR GRANGE

So where are our rainforests? There are 15 in Scotland, 8 in Wales, 4 in Northern Ireland, 5 in the Republic of Ireland, 4 in Exmoor and Dartmoor and 2 in Cumbria and those lie in the Lake District National Park, on the shores of Derwentwater and Ullswater.

In Borrowdale, the National Trust owns and manages the Borrowdale Woods stretching up from Great Wood below Walla Crag to Lodore, Stonethwaite and Seathwaite, with little pockets in the Newlands Valley, on the shores of Buttermere and up at Honister. On Ullswater’s shores, National Trust owned Glencoyne Woods surround Aira Force, but the woods below Hallin Fell and Low Wood near Brothers Water also fall into the rainforest bracket.

They are wonderful old woods, the Borrowdale complex being especially known for their ‘old forest lichens’ and there are plenty of paths to follow to give beautiful views over the lakes. Great Wood is a particularly accessible walk from the centre of Keswick.

AIRA FORCE

johnny’s wood, borrowdale

great wood, borrowdale

In an ever-changing world, it’s lovely to think we still have these special little sun dappled areas to enjoy that really haven’t changed for centuries.

Recommended Reading:

The Rainforests of Britain & Ireland by Clifton Bain, www.woodlandtrust.org.uk, www.naturalengland.org.uk, www.nationaltrust.org.uk/borrowdale, www.thelakedistrict.org

Simple Pleasures

As I get older, I find I like the simpler life.  I spent a huge part of my twenties, thirties and forties rushing around the globe trying to see and do as much as possible. I thought nothing of 12, 15, 24 hour flights on dodgy airlines, staying in all sorts of dubious accommodation and eating heaven knows what from street vendors. All that was exciting, amazing and wonderful and I loved every minute and, while I still like to travel, I don't have the same reckless abandon and itchy feet that I once had.

I like a bit of peace and quiet, things to be calmer and the pace a little slower. I find I get up and go to bed earlier, eat less but well, feel grumpy if I don't have fresh air and exercise every day and have way more fruit, veg and pulses than I ever did. On the flip side, I don't deal with stress so well, I worry more about silly things, obsess a bit over comfort (think footwear) and a warm sunny day now means good drying weather.  

Tastes in everything simplify and crystallise as you know and hone what you like; music, reading material, clothing, home decor, art, films, food, interests. Even friends. It's a good feeling.

But it's the simple pleasures that begin to pinpoint a day.

We try to inject a simple pleasure into something not so enjoyable and the biggest simple pleasure we have is stopping for a coffee wherever and whenever we can. This has been inherited from Dad who always does it, much to the disapproval of Mum, who doesn't. Even if we've been to the supermarket, we balance that with a simple, pleasurable coffee afterwards. There are plenty of other things though; a recent trip to the dentist ended with me sitting in the garden to calm jangling nerves watching the birds squabbling on the bird table. A stressful day at work can be countered afterwards by a short walk to a lovely nearby wildflower meadow, a long motorway drive can be soothed by a hot bath, a glass of something fizzy can feel indulgent in a day spent wallowing in housework and many an upset has been quelled by taking the dog out and simply throwing a ball about.

It doesn't have to involve any money, any effort or anyone. Walking through a bluebell wood, seeing new fresh green leaves, smelling wild garlic, listening to birdsong (a skylark on a summer's day in the hills is my absolute favourite), watching the rain wrapped in a rug, reading by the fire in winter, lying in long grass in the summer, walking next to running water.

In a job years ago, we - five of us girls - had to work on Saturdays, so the boss left us money for our lunch as a treat. We always shared a fresh loaf, smoked salmon and cream cheese which we ate together, giggling, in the cramped little kitchen. It broke up the day and we really looked forward to it each week. Years and years ago when I was a pony mad young teen working weekends in the local riding stables - mucking out, grooming and cleaning tack, the simple pleasure was being allowed to ride the horses bareback down the lane to the field to turn them out at the end of the day.

On the way to work now, I cross a small bridge over a tiny river and the flowers lining the banks lift my spirits. I always stop and look for a few minutes. Simple.

after every shopping trip!

lifting the spirits on the way to work

Life throws so much at us; there's so much horror, fear, negativity, worry and cruelty in the world, that simple pleasures might not just be simple after all.

5 walks for National Walking Month

May is National Walking Month; a chance to get outside in the lighter, warmer evenings for a full on hike, a gentle ramble,  a stroll, promenade, roam, plod, meander, trek, march, jaunt, amble, saunter or even a peregrination if that's your bag. In other words (if there are any left), there's something for everyone's age, health, ability, inclination or preference.

We know the benefits of fresh air and exercise on our bodies and minds and best of all, it's free. You can enjoy it at any time of the year, at any time of the day or night, with or without company and it can be fitted in wherever and whenever you choose, for as long or as short a duration depending on how you feel. A quick dash round in your lunch break, a more leisurely dog walk after work or a full day's hiking. Endless possibilities. With so many different places to choose from, here are five different walks we've enjoyed.

Buttermere Village to Crummock Water

I appreciate that not everyone wants to race uphill, so this is a lovely gentle little walk between Buttermere Village and Crummock Water we did when Bro aggravated an old knee injury and didn't want to do anything too taxing. Starting from the car park in Buttermere, past Syke Farm camp site following a tiny stream, you cross a beautiful meadow heading for a stand of trees on a small hillock which is a great place for atmospheric photos as the light is softly filtered and the trees are very moss covered. This southern end of Crummock is lovely, with pebbly beaches and little coves leading down to the water's edge and lots of places to sit and picnic. It's just a delight here and a real suntrap if you get the weather. The Fish Inn or the Bridge Inn are great places to have refreshments afterwards.

Fleetwith Pike

This is an absolute favourite and there is more than one route to choose from, but a slightly different way is to take the Honister Rambler bus from Keswick to the Honister Slate Mine which is a really relaxing way to start. Circling the foot of Catbells,  you get wonderful views across Derwentwater. The route from the mine follows the quarry path up to Bell Crags and from there it's a straightforward walk to the summit which is just stunning. Looking straight down the length of Buttermere and Crummock Water, ringed by fells, it's a magical spot. Don't forget to the check the return bus times (we had a slight panic once that we'd missed the last one which we just caught)  and it can get really busy in peak times. Otherwise, there is plenty of parking available for £5.00 a day which is refundable against mine tours, the Via Ferrata or purchases in the shop over £10.00.

Arnison Crag

This is another of my absolute favourite areas to walk and is a moderate sized fell with huge views. Arnison is an outlying fell belonging to the Fairfield group and looks down on Patterdale village. The path up wends its way through the bracken following a lovely old dry stone wall and doesn't involve anything too strenuous, but your reward is a panorama of the Eastern fells and a corker of a view down Ullswater.

Tottlebank Height

This has the advantage (as does Carron Crag) of being one of Wainwright's Outlying Fells if you fancy a spot of peak bagging, but it's in a very quiet and beautiful area at the southern end of Coniston Water. Heading towards Blawith and parking off the road opposite the Giant's Grave, the walk can easily be combined with Blawith Knott if you fancy a longer outing. Magnificent views towards the Coniston Fells and over the Duddon Valley to Black Combe.

Carron Crag

Right in the middle of the beautiful Grizedale Forest, you have the added benefit of coffee and cake before you start, or tea and cake as you finish at the lovely Grizedale Cafe at the Visitors Centre. The forest has eight marked walking trails for all abilities, as well as mountain bike routes and forest roads. This walk follows the red marker posts up through the forest with gorgeous, far reaching views once you get to the top.  A lovely little summit area, not too strenuous walking and some interesting sculptures along the way.

What are you waiting for?!!

Transylvania ha ha.......

I was very fortunate to be offered a week's work trip in April to Transylvania somewhere, frankly, I have long wanted to visit.

Those that know me know I like anything spooky and this, coupled with the mountains and the history, was perfect for me! A number of people have said, before I went and after I returned, that they didn't think Transylvania was even a real place, so firmly entrenched are we in the Dracula myth, but yes, it is a region of Romania and yes, there actually was a real Dracula - Vlad Tepes, also known as Vlad the Impaler. He obviously wasn't a vampire, but he might have drunk the blood of his victims as it meant taking on their characteristics - be it strength or bravery. Dracula meant son of the Devil which is a reference I guess to a fairly brutal and cruel reputation, but they were different times and he is regarded a something of a folk hero in Romania.

Anyway, the myth is a little perpetuated in some areas - mainly for the tourists - but it is a fascinating country with some truly unique sights I've never seen anywhere else in all my travels, and I loved it.

bran castle - DRACUla’s castle

vlad tepes, aka vlad the impaler aka vlad dracul

the shoemaker’s house

We visited the cities/towns/villages of Bucharest, Sinaia, Brasov, Bucovina, Sighisoara, Bistrita, Cluj Napoca, Alba Iulia and Sibiu, and the overriding impression I had is that everything is very old, very authentic and very unspoilt, which was fascinating. Most of the smaller towns and villages date back to the 13th century and I don't imagine they look so different from those times. Small, crooked houses all brightly painted, narrow cobbled streets, tiny old churches, covered wooden walkways and fantastic old clock towers dominate town and village squares.

We visited the beautiful Peles Castle filled with stunning wood carvings and Bran Castle traditionally known as Dracula's castle, although Vlad Tepes was only held prisoner there for a short time. Prejmer Fortified Church really was an extraordinarily tangible example of the history of everyday people; a four storey fortified wall around the church; all built of wood which we had to feel our way round in semi darkness on uneven floors, and all utterly untouched since the 1300s. Tiny rooms where families sheltered in troubled times were just as they would have been back then. Astonishing and quite moving.

The landscapes varied as we travelled through this amazing country against the backdrop of the Carpathian Mountains, still with patches of snow, from the mightily impressive 1000ft cliffs of the Bicaz Gorges to the more rolling and pastoral Moldovan farmland region. We visited the utterly exquisite painted monastery at Voronet, one of only a handful left in the county with unbelievably beautiful, vibrantly painted Biblical scenes covering every surface, inside and out. We visited the unique Salina Turda salt mine with its three hundred foot cavern and lake at the bottom where you can row a boat in the dim light and people come to take the air to help with respiratory problems.

We also visited museums and huge churches in Cluj Napoca and Alba Iulia, had dinner in Dracula's birthplace and childhood home which is now a restaurant in Sighisoara and ended in Bucharest which is a busy, buzzy city - a little like Paris but on a vast scale, with little remnants of the older city still existing in tiny churches and ornate courtyards tucked away down narrow back streets.

prejmer fortified church

voronet painted monastery

dracula’S house in sighisoara

salina turda salt mine - boating 300ft down!

carpathian mountains

All in all, it was a fascinating, memorable trip. It's a wonderful place to visit if you want something a little different, somewhere unspoilt with a long, interesting history and a touch of spookiness on the side!!

Spring in the Lakes

thornthwaite crag

Well, a fortnight's trip to the Lakes has been and gone far too quickly. We had a fabulous time, even if it didn't go quite as we planned. The weather was utterly amazing and we spent a fair amount of it in T-shirts, but then had a fall of snow on the last but one day, which made everything look magical.

We did beautiful Catstye Cam from Glenridding village whilst staying in the gorgeous Glenridding Hotel, which finished the Far Eastern fells for us as well as the whole ridge from Clough Head to Dollwaggon Pike. We took a steamer from Glenridding to Howtown and walked the length of pretty Fusedale up to Whether Hill which was a mopping up exercise as we'd done the rest of the ridge going back towards Pooley Bridge in a huge smog cloud a few years ago and, having walked 10 miles, didn't much fancy carrying on as it was irritating our chests and eyes. This completed the High Street ridge for us.

We did a big walk up the nose of Gray Crag from Hartsop, along the top of the glorious ridge to Thornthwaite Crag (another mop up from our High Street/Mardale Ill Bell day with a young dog we didn't want to push too far) and on to Froswick which was beautiful. We then went back up to Thornthwaite Crag and down Threshthwaite Mouth and along the Pasture Beck valley, but the next day Bro's knee swelled and he was laid up for a few days at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. I spent some time exploring; I went into Mickleden, up to Blea Tarn and Oak Howe which was all really lovely.

Our time in our favourite Buttermere was superb. We’re not very good at relaxing, but the weather was stunning, the views sublime and we were staying at the Fish Inn which was very comfortable and friendly. Bro’s knee improved to such an extent that we could walk to and and sit by Buttermere and Crummock, taking photos, paddling, reading, brewing coffee and enjoying the peace and quiet. There was no mobile signal, no wifi and no television, so we read lots, slept 10 hours a night and ate well. It was just what we needed without realising we needed it.

We then moved to a rented cottage in Keswick with the most fabulous panorama of the northern fells from the back bedroom window. We enjoyed some lovely gentle walks in the area; a gorgeous one around Crosthwaithe Parish Church, another round Derwent Water, round the pretty village of Braithwaite, explored Keswick and also in Whinlatter Forest watching the amazing bird life from the comfort and warmth of the cafe.

SWIRral edge towards helvellyn

Fusedale

Froswick from thornthwaite crag

So, while Bro couldn't really do any of the higher fells, he experimented with camera settings and the drone while I re-climbed Castle Crag, right up the hated slate pile this time that had slightly scared me twice before, meaning I didn’t go right to the very top. Bro decided on the last day he wanted to climb something small, as we’d be in the car for five hours the following day, so we climbed Rannerdale Knotts, an old favourite. His knee held up and he was able to manage the walk quite easily.

At home, he’s undergoing an intensive round of physio and a full recovery is looking promising.

fleetwith pike

BUTTERMERE valley from rannerdale knotts

crummock water from rannerdale summit

brew with a view

So, we have 46 more Wainwright fells to climb to complete the challenge, which feels achievable before we both get too old and decrepit. I say both; I was on fire.......

More Hidden Gems

When we are in the Lakes for a week or fortnight we always factor in days off otherwise the climbing can feel a little relentless and tiring, especially if you only have a limited time there. You do need a little time to re-charge so, if like us you have itchy feet and a desire to see as much of the area as possible and make the most of the time, here are a few suggestions of lovely, slightly out of the way places we've found and enjoyed.

Scaly Moss - this was on the way to climb a couple of  fells, but it was memorable enough for us to go back to. Mainly memorable for a herd of fell ponies cantering across the common, then wandering nonchalantly along the road. I adore horses and these beauties were very friendly. The area is just lovely to sit and admire the views, have a picnic or a wander, far from the madding crowd. Kinniside Stone Circle is also interesting, set on a rise just to the right of the top of the road in the picture.

free ranging fell ponies

Boon Wood, at the southern end of Coniston - this gently wooded, slightly sloping, grassy area is perfect for a picnic; five minutes from parking the car you can sit in the shade on the southern shores of Coniston Water with views up the lake and across the water to Brock Barrow and Low Light Haw on the eastern shore of the lake. Very peaceful.

Deepdale - we came across this area on our way up St Sunday Crag and it was gorgeous. Very secluded, very quiet and very beautiful running alongside Deepdale Beck, then sandwiched between the bulk of St Sunday and Fairfield, it would be a lovely place for a walk and a picnic in its own right. Lovely little Shetland ponies graze next to the track and we didn't see another soul all day.

Summit of Brae Fell, Back o'Skiddaw - a little fell with a big panorama towards Dumfries and Galloway. These Caldbeck Fells are lovely; lonely, grassy, not particularly high but surrounded by higher fells, it's a great place to wander or sit and relax and you can usually have it all to yourselves. Feels lovely and remote in winter.

from boon wood down the length of Coniston

Binsey - another little fell in a superb position. The furthest north of all the Wainwright peaks, it sits on its own looking back towards Skiddaw and the northern fells one way, and across the Solway Firth the other. An easy ascent of probably no more than an hour if taken slowly brings you to a flattish plateau area. Very peaceful, out of the way, this is  good one for a summer's evening.

Binsey’s summit cairn

Mousethwaite Comb - this area looks like a giant scoop has been taken out of the fell side. A steep path runs diagonally upwards, but it's the views back over Clough Head that are so worthwhile. At the top, you have options to go on either towards Sharp Edge or Bannerdale Crags, up Blencathra or over to Souther Fell. We've taken each route at various times, but on a calm, warm day, it's lovely to sit at the top and just take in those views.

the top of mousethwaite comb with the path snaking downwards

Angle Tarn - another gem and, judging from You Tube, also a popular wild camping site. This is in one of my favourite walking areas and there are a number of approaches. We've taken the path from Patterdale to Boredale Hause and walked the Coast to Coast path skirting Angletarn Crags, and also from Hartsop up to Hayeswater, then heading the other way on the Coast to Coast path. It's just so stunning and quiet and tucked away, you'd never know it was there unless you put some effort in. Always the best reward, I think.

Angle Tarn

Wonderful Winter walks with water

grasmere

Not everyone aspires to the heights in winter and there is great pleasure to be had in wrapping up warmly and going for a bracing winter's walk by water without expending too much energy, whilst still enjoying the views and rewarding yourself afterwards in the pub, by the fire. Here are a few favourite Lakeland suggestions.

Loweswater Lakeshore

Loweswater is one of the smallest lakes on the western edge of the National Park. It's the only lake where the water flows back towards the park and not towards the sea and is a beautiful, peaceful place. In two and half miles, the path will take you from Maggie's Bridge through Holme Wood and back again (you can continue right round by taking the road if you prefer a loop), giving you beautiful views of Mellbreak and the high fells round Buttermere. Reward your efforts in the Kirkstile Inn.

Circuit of Ennerdale

The most westerly of all the lakes and the most remote. It's a deep glacial lake and the only one with no roads running alongside it and which has been the subject of a successful rewilding project. Much of the pretty shoreline is National Trust owned, and the full walk is along the shoreline for about six and a half miles on good paths. The views are superb looking up the valley. Very tranquil.

ennerdale

Devoke Water

The biggest tarn and one of the highest in the Lake District, is just off the Birker Fell Road in Eskdale. Even on a warm day in the height of summer, it's still possible to be the only people there and the views are staggering. The path round the tarn is mostly good, but can get a little marshy in places and part of the loop will be via Water Crag and Rough Crag, but the climbs are not too strenuous.

Aira Force to Glenridding on the Ullswater Way

A three mile walk by what some say is Lakeland's most beautiful lake. Straightforward paths, some surfaced, some not, run alongside the lakeshore taking you through Glencoyne Deer Park, all the while enjoying the stunning views this beautiful area has in spades. There is a small stretch on the road, so take care. New last year was the Dalemain Loop of the Ullswater Way - a five mile route across fields and parkland.

Wise Een Tarn

Located in Claife Heights, a favourite area of Beatrix Potter, this pretty tarn has beautiful views over to the Langdale Pikes. There are a number of ways to reach the tarn with walks of varying lengths, but the paths are all good and not too taxing. It's a lovely, gentle area to explore, with glimpses of Lake Windermere along the way.

wise een tarn