A short Summer Lakes break

Faced with a few days off towards the beginning of July, we decided to head north for a short break. Our thinking was to try and ease the walking in our October and November visits by climbing Hesk Fell and Stainton Pike and, with our sensible heads on, avoid driving down the Duddon Valley and up onto the Birker Fell Road when the weather could potentially be a little less benign. We also wanted to re-visit Newton Fell North and Caermote (for the third time of trying), as these two would have been slightly more awkward to get to from where we were staying at the end of the year. 

We booked into a little bungalow between Waterhead and Ambleside for four nights, which proved to be warm, quiet and very comfortable. On our way to the accommodation, we parked in a layby just below Newton Fell North to re-climb it as we suspected we hadn't quite got to the top in 2017 and we were right; in fact, we hadn't been anywhere near it! It was a warm, muggy afternoon but the wildflowers were lovely, there were deer on the flanks and the heather was just coming into flower. The walk was very marshy and circuitous as we couldn't see a path for the shoulder high bracken, but the views once at the top were lovely.

Our next objectives were Hesk Fell and Stainton Pike. We hadn't tacked Hesk Fell onto The Pike when we climbed it in March last year as Bro had a problem with his ankle, and we hadn't gone on to Stainton Pike from The Knott in that same week as the weather was horrendous, so this would tidy things up nicely. We set out very early for the fairly long drive to Coniston, down the length of the Duddon Valley, then very sharply and steeply up onto the Birker Fell Road, parking at the end of a lane which crossed tiny Woodend Bridge. It was a gorgeous day with stunning views of the Scafells and Devoke Water around us. As we started up the huge, grassy, featureless bulk of Hesk Fell, the sun came out making it very warm indeed, but three quarters of an hour or so later, there was a lovely cooling breeze blowing across the wide, flat summit plateau and breathtaking views in all directions.

From there, we headed towards Stainton Pike, and it looked a fair distance away, but once we picked our way down Hesk's western flank, it was a fairly straightforward yomp across a lovely lonely valley and up the other side. Mist rolled in from the coast, but fortunately we were on the ridge just before it engulfed us, and we made our way to Stainton Pike in that strange muffled quiet you experience in thick mist. It was a very simple and pleasurable walk in an area which felt quite remote, but we were soon on the final pull up to the top. We found it was much cooler on the summit and, with the mist clearing every so often, provided wonderful views to Muncaster Castle and towards Wasdale. We also looked down on The Knott we'd climbed in horrendous weather the previous October, relieved that we hadn't attempted to go on to climb Stainton Pike back then as originally planned! After a bite to eat and some photos, we decided that, as we were only about a twenty minute walk from Yoadcastle, one of the Devoke Water fells, we would re-climb it as we wanted a proper summit shot. We also seemed to have been just slightly off to one side of the true summit when we climbed it in 2017, so we wanted to be sure. It was a very easy detour over gently undulating ground but with a fairly stiff little climb up to the summit knoll. We sat for a while, taking photos and admiring the vast landscape in front of us, then started down in a more or less in a dead straight line to the north of Hesk Fell, heading for a drystone wall we had walked beside when we set off. Hot chocolate sitting watching tiny chaffinches at the Crosby Snack Shed was very welcome before the drive back

That afternoon. we wandered into Ambleside and Brathay Park where a Lakeland Trails event was taking place. We sat and watched for a while, enjoying the atmosphere.

The following day we decided to climb Caermote and it would be our third attempt. Both previous attempts had resulted in us not feeling comfortable climbing without permission, especially as we knew for sure that it was on private land. This time we asked two farmers in a nearby field and they pointed out the farm which owned the land, so (after a fortifying cup of coffee!) we walked into the yard and knocked on the farmhouse door. The farmer couldn't have been friendlier or more welcoming and happily gave his permission, asking that we used a specific gate, and letting us there weren't any cows in the surrounding fields. All in all, it took no more than 15 minutes and had the most spectacular panoramic views, especially over to Scotland. A delightful little fell.

Our final stop just before we re-joined the motorway home, was stunning Sizergh Castle. It was raining slightly, but it didn't diminish our enjoyment of the beautiful gardens and grounds, and its fascinating history. All in all, it was a really productive, short visit and leaves us 12 Outlying Fells left to do. We have two more weeks booked in October and November, so fingers crossed for completion, bringing to an end our quest to climb all 330 mountains and fells of the Lake District!

Hike Healthy

Following on from my previous blog, this time I was pondering what it was I had to do in order for me to feel comfortable and happy out walking, and to enjoy my days out.

I think I've had a fairly active life and always much prefer being outdoors. As a child, I was encouraged to get outside. Television time was limited and we didn't have the internet or mobile phones, so we made our own entertainment. We had a large dog, I was pony mad and helped out at the stables every weekend and in the school holidays for years and I played a lot of sport at school. I discovered a love of walking in my late teens and this has continued up to the present day, and we also enjoy running, mountain biking and swimming.

Any form of hiking or climbing is hard work, there's no doubt about it, but with some effort, you can thoroughly enjoy your days as well. There's nothing better than achieving whatever goal you've set yourself that day, be it a mountain top, a multi day hike, a bike ride or just a bit of a longer dog walk. Try not to be put off by the weather, as you will need to get out in all conditions, in all seasons and on all types of different terrain. The following things have helped me over the years.

Building fitness - There’s no sugar coating this; it is essentially a lot of hard work and commitment and you do have to put the effort in. You don't want to go at it too hard if you're just starting out or you’ll probably end up being put off. For me though, regular and repeated exercise has been the key to maintaining and increasing my fitness levels. It was no good visiting the Lakes perhaps three or four times a year, doing nothing in between and then expecting to be able to comfortably hike 10 miles over 7 or 8 hours. I had to maintain a level of fitness in between visits and that has meant walking every day, which I enjoy and really notice if I don't do it. In fact, I actually feel guilty if I don't do it. We always set ourselves a target mileage to achieve and try to walk faster than usual. We try to mix our walking up a little so it's not all on the flat, but there aren't many decent hills where we live, and you do need to climb hills to prepare for the hills. If we only have limited time or a flat walk, we mix it up with bursts of jogging then faster walking. We also take our mountain bikes out and we swim, do pilates and gym work for strength and suppleness and we always take the stairs.

Building stamina - I think this is where I've seen my biggest improvement. Over the last two decades, going for longer, harder and higher walks has meant that today, Bro and I know we can walk continuously and steadily for 10 hours over mountainous terrain, quite comfortably. Walking speeds have also increased as my legs and back became stronger. The key is to increase the length of your walks, walk faster,  include some running and always include some uphill, even jogging uphill. Any regular movement or sport will help though.

Getting enough sleep - I find this both easier and harder as I've got older. I'm usually beginning to nod off at about 10pm and go to bed around then. I do find I wake up in the night, but I'm usually awake by about 6am and I think seven hours is about right for me. There are the occasional nights when my mind's buzzing and I lie awake until the small hours, but I know I'll sleep well the next night, so I try to be relaxed about it. I always sleep with the window wide open, even in winter and usually have the curtains open as well. 

Eating well - We don't eat processed foods, we always have plenty of fresh fish, fruit and veg, we limit tea or coffee - both decaf - to one cup a day and we eat lots of pulses, grains and beans. We don't have too much red meat, we try to reduce the amount of carbs we have and we try to eat seasonally. We're not perfect - we like the odd chocolate bar or biscuit, but everything in moderation. We always have a decent breakfast before a walk - granola with yoghurt and blueberries and a bagel or slice of brown toast, or porridge with honey and banana in the winter, and always a good meal after a big walk. We drink lots and lots of water throughout each and every day. I very rarely have alcohol, although Bro does occasionally have a pint of ale.

Preparing yourself - We keep toe nails short so they don't bang against the end of our boots. We look after our feet, treating anything like corns, calluses and dry skin immediately and keep feet clean, warm, dry and moisturised as much as we can. We moisturise faces and hands and use lots of sunscreen and lip balm. I don't wear lots of make up or jewellery on the hills, hair is tied back and underwear is comfortable. I would’t advise wearing new boots on a long walk as I did recently and suffered some discomfort in my knees on a couple of long descents. Make sure your kit is tried, tested and comfortable before you set off. Make sure you stretch and warm up properly before you set off, and warm down when you return. Try to maintain a good, positive attitude and try not to complain if it rains or you're finding it harder than you thought, or the day will probably be even more miserable. It will get better!

With some effort, perseverance and preparation, you should be able to enjoy your days out, comfortably and easily. 

Hike Happy

I was pondering the other day on what immediately comes to mind when I want to go for a walk. 

A leafy lane in summer with golden sunlight slanting through the trees? A cool, crisp winter's day striding the hills? Hunting for mushrooms in a darkening, damp woodland? The fresh scent of a bluebell wood in spring? A gentle stroll along the riverbank.? Yes, all of these and much more, but whatever my mind conjures up, it makes me feel instantly happy.

Walking has such a powerful association with the things I love, that I can almost smell the leaf mold or the wood smoke of a distant bonfire in an autumnal forest, I can feel the chill of an icy breeze on the hilltop, I can see the wildflowers in the verge, smell the heather, touch rough tree bark, hear the skylarks and I love it. More than that, I need it. 

Our lives are all so busy, so noisy and so frantic, that it's lovely, not to mention vital, to switch off, still the chatter and enjoy something simpler, gentler and calmer. A walk for me is always a chance to clear my head and clear my mind and it always makes me happy or happier. When all you have to think about is what is in front of you, in that moment, then you're not worrying about answering that email, sending a thousand texts, checking your social media feeds or who said what to whom. 

A walk can soothe. An argument, an upset, a niggle, a problem. You can think more clearly, rationally and calmly. I love an evening walk to clear an aching, stuffy head from being indoors all day looking at a screen, enjoying and delighting in nature; flowers, birds, trees, scenery, horses in a field, the weather, the sights, sounds and smells; whatever it is. All of it and everything is added to the mix and results in a burst of endorphins and a wave of happiness.

I always, without fail, feel better.

Happier.

I love a twilight walk when the world seems different and unfamiliar but exciting. I love an early walk, heading into the sunrise of a cool dawn, watching the colours of the sky change by the minute. I love a quick scoot round our local woods, or a long, hard hike in the hills. I love a Christmas walk when everyone’s cheery and you can hurry home and thaw out by the fire. I love walking in all seasons and all weathers. It all makes me happy.

It doesn't have to be a full day out in amazing scenery, it could be a local walk from home that you've done a hundred times before. It could include the pleasure of walking and talking with a friend; focussing on the conversation and really listening. It could be a stroll alone, giving you the chance to take notice of the small things without distraction, or work through a problem in peace and quiet. It could just be taking the dog out and the simple, infectious pleasure that that brings. All of it makes me happy.

Even the anticipation of a walk brings me joy. Looking forward to a trip to the Lakes and being out on the hills when we live a five hour drive away. A coastal walk with the tang of salty air and the freshness of the sea. Planning a walk, planning your summer, working out which route to take or exploring new paths.

Walking is so good for us in so many ways. For me physically, I sleep better if I've had daily exercise and wake up feeling more relaxed and refreshed and looking forward to the day. Mentally, it increases my positivity, relaxes me, helps reduce anything I might be a little worried or upset about and helps me to feel more energised. Above all, it makes me feel happy and content.

So how do I feel about wanting to go for a walk, going for a walk or thinking about a walk? Happy, that's how.

happiness

The Lakes in Spring

Our second visit of the year to the Lakes in May was in complete contrast to our week in March. This time, we were blessed with wonderful weather and it reminded us how lovely it is to walk in Tshirts when it's warm and relatively dry underfoot. This was to be our final visit to the north eastern Lakes, climbing the last of nine Shap Fells we had left to do. 

Our first, and longest, walk was the Wet Sleddale Horseshoe, onto which we also tacked Wasdale Pike and it was quite a long, physical day. The weather was overcast with some light drizzle at the beginning of the morning, but it was thankfully warm. Underfoot was very marshy and running wet in parts, but for the most part dry. Navigation wasn't a problem even though there weren't any discernible paths, but the terrain was hard going - uneven, rough grass, hidden rocks, vast swathes of heather and lots of undulation. However, we also had beautiful views down the length of Wet Sleddale and across to Swindale, but it felt very remote indeed and we didn't meet or see anyone else all day. Wet Sleddale is a pretty valley, and it was lovely to see it from a different angle. 

A visit to Temple Sowerby and Acorn Bank provided an opportunity to visit a new area, and we thoroughly enjoyed wandering round the beautiful gardens and orchards, before following the wonderfully named Crowdundle Beck to a small working mill, then back along a woodland path lined with the most prolific swathes of wild garlic we've ever seen. The sight and smell was incredible and ran from the mill all the way back to the main house. 

The following day found us out early to drive the thirty or so miles to Keswick to attend the Mountain Festival for a second time. The weather was perfect and it was wonderful to be back in amongst the scenery of the northern fells once again. We wandered down and round Derwentwater taking photos. then had a cup of coffee outside at the Lakeside Cafe, before spending time at the lively festival. Lunch was at the lovely Elm Cafe in George Fisher's which was Abrahams when we last ate there, but the changes were lovely and the food was delicious. Somewhat reluctantly, we left Keswick later that afternoon and headed back to Shap, checking into the Shap Wells Hotel for our second stay there, heading immediately up into their little woodland to watch the Red Squirrels which was a delight. The weather was now beautifully warm.

Todd Fell and Whiteside Pike were next on our list to tackle, and they were absolutely stunning. The sun was bright, it was warm and dry, there was a profusion of wildflowers and lambs, and the whole walk only took us around two hours,, so we were able to drink it all in. Bannisdale looked stunning, with vast sweeps of bluebells carpeting the fellside. A gentler day followed and we spent a lot of time in the woods back at the hotel, watching, photographing and filming the squirrels which was magical. We made the short drive to pretty Orton village to buy one or two food items that afternoon to take with us on our walk the next morning; the Crookdale Horseshoe. 

As the weather was forecast to be much warmer, we were on the fellside at 7am in the cool of a misty morning. Walking along the ridge from High House Bank to Robin Hood then on to Lord's Seat, was delightful; easy, only very slightly undulating, warm, clear, dry, on a path of sorts and with wonderful views in all directions. We made good time and enjoyed every minute, sitting for some time on each summit. From Lord’s Seat, we headed off piste towards Crookdale Beck, where we stopped for coffee and a bite to eat observed by a herd of curious sheep, before heading back up and over Whatshaw Common, meeting two fellow outlying fell walkers and enjoying an interesting half hour chat with them.

We headed home early the next morning as rain was forecast, but it had been a wonderful, enjoyable week. We were a little sad to have finished the Shap Fells; indeed all the eastern fells now, in this beautiful and remote corner of the National Park. Our next visit will be to the west coast, but I think often and with much affection about those gentle fells and the red squirrels in that special, magical little woodland.  

A Lakeland Spring

We’ve been lucky, very lucky and it was so good to be back in the Lakes again after 7 months away.

We had a week’s self catering booked from last year which we moved to last week, and which was able to go ahead under the covid easing regulations. We stayed in a small three bedroom semi detached house in Portinscale that was beautifully comfortable, in the perfect location, and we ate there every evening. We had one coffee out in the whole week.

The weather was amazing, as the week before ours had seen quite a heavy snowfall, but we had no rain (other than one evening), the snow had gone, it was warm enough for a fleece without a coat and there was virtually no wind. We did have one walk with very strong gusts of wind that made us stagger sideways but other than that, it was mild and warm with one or two overcast days, making the perfect walking weather.

At the start of the week, we had 12 Wainwright summits left to climb to finish the challenge. The plan was to tackle 3 of them from Borrowdale and 1 from Ullswater, leaving the last 8 in Wasdale for later in the year hopefully.

The first walk was The Nab from Patterdale and Boredale Hause on a blustery day, but it was a good walk to get ourselves hill fit again and we managed 9 miles and nearly 3000 feet of overall climbing, but the wind picked up on the return and was incredibly strong around Angle Tarn, but exhilarating.

The second walk was Kirk Fell and we took the Hoister Rambler bus from just outside our house up to Honister Slate Mine and climbed up the mine path heading across the flanks of Grey Knotts and Brandreth to Moses Trod. The sun was out, it was warm and still and we only saw 5 people all day. The views down Buttermere and Ennerdale were spectacular. Once at Beck Head, with Great Gable for company, we climbed the steepish, scrambly rock path up the side of Kirk Fell onto the summit plateau where there was still a fair way to go to the summit, but it was easy walking and the views of the Scafells and Wasdale were magnificent.

Walk three was Rosthwaite Fell, one Bro had done before on his own when we had a sick dog to look after, but he generously came back up with me. The views down Borrowdale to Skiddaw were beautiful, but it was a steep climb, although not that lengthy, and much cooler on the top where we realised we were almost at the central point of the Lake District. It was amazing to be able to spin round 360 degrees and realise we’d climbed everything in sight, as well as most of the ridges and valleys.

The last walk was Esk Pike from Seathwaite. We arrived early and parked easily and courteously at the side of the farmer’s road and took the path straight up to the head of the Grains Valley to Esk Hause, following first Grains Gill, then Ruddy Gill. As we gained height, we walked into the low lying cloud which, unfortunately, didn’t lift at all, but it made a wonderfully atmospheric walk up past the enormous ravine of Ruddy Gill, which was very dramatic. The pitched path was very easy to walk on and you didn’t really notice the steepness of the route. At Esk Hause, it was such a shame we couldn’t see the views, but the final pull up to Esk PIke’s summit was very straightforward and we arrived on the top at mid morning. It was very warm and still with not a breath of wind (we’ve read that the wind can be fearsomely strong up there), so we had a drink, took some photos of each other, then made our way back down again. The cloud began to lift as we got lower and we had lovely views of the valley ahead.

All in all, it was a fantastic week and a real privilege to be back. Everywhere was incredibly quiet as the hotels hadn’t opened, people were friendly and the weather had been kind to us. Just the tonic we needed.

Looking forward

As lockdown leeches into a third month now, I am still on furlough until further notice. I have been using the time productively and, amongst lots of other things, one of the jobs that I have being doing is sorting and editing photos. I have also completely re-vamped and refreshed this website, adding an orientation section to some of the national parks in the UK.

All of this has meant trawling through hundreds, if not thousands, of photos and hundreds of those are of the Lake District. It’s all made me fairly “homesick”, and I thought I’d address that by listing some of the places we’ll be visiting as soon as we’re allowed back out properly and safely.

1. Buttermere

Our absolute favourite valley and favourite place to walk. In Wainwright terms, we’ve climbed everything around the valley except for Hopegill Head, but we will be back to walk round Buttermere itself and just enjoy the village, the atmosphere and scenery.

Buttermere Valley from Fleetwith Pike

2. Glenridding

I adore this village and the whole Patterdale area in general. Ullswater is stunning and the Ullswater Way is another plan once we’ve finished climbing the Wainwrights. I love the fact you can get up high and enjoy the views with very little effort.

Glenridding from Birks

3. Wasdale

Almost half of the 28 Wainwrights we have left to climb are in Wasdale, so we’ll be spending a couple of weeks in this beautiful valley eventually. It’s very remoteness is what appeals, and it really feels as though you’re in ‘proper’ mountain country here, surrounded as you are by all the highest fells.

Wast Water

4. Thirlmere

I’ve just read an article by Bill Birkett as he explored the eastern shore of Thirlmere and the surprising amount of things of interest there. We have done bits of it, but I’d like to walk it completely. It’s such a lovely quiet, perhaps slightly unterrated place and the views are stunning.

The Thirlmere valley from Brown Cove

5. Ennerdale

This is an area we really haven’t been to but we’ve looked down on Ennerdale Water from several of the high fells that surround it. I’d like to explore the circuit of the lake and revel in the peace and quiet that its remoteness offers. No roads round the lake helps!

Ennerdale

Until such time though, I’ll have to content myself with looking at photos and I also have Terry Abraham’s DVDs of Scafell Pike and Blencathra which will help, but in the meantime, stay safe and well and keep focusing on the light at the end of the tunnel.

5 walks for National Walking Month

May is National Walking Month; a chance to get outside in the lighter, warmer evenings for a full on hike, a gentle ramble,  a stroll, promenade, roam, plod, meander, trek, march, jaunt, amble, saunter or even a peregrination if that's your bag. In other words (if there are any left), there's something for everyone's age, health, ability, inclination or preference.

We know the benefits of fresh air and exercise on our bodies and minds and best of all, it's free. You can enjoy it at any time of the year, at any time of the day or night, with or without company and it can be fitted in wherever and whenever you choose, for as long or as short a duration depending on how you feel. A quick dash round in your lunch break, a more leisurely dog walk after work or a full day's hiking. Endless possibilities. With so many different places to choose from, here are five different walks we've enjoyed.

Buttermere Village to Crummock Water

I appreciate that not everyone wants to race uphill, so this is a lovely gentle little walk between Buttermere Village and Crummock Water we did when Bro aggravated an old knee injury and didn't want to do anything too taxing. Starting from the car park in Buttermere, past Syke Farm camp site following a tiny stream, you cross a beautiful meadow heading for a stand of trees on a small hillock which is a great place for atmospheric photos as the light is softly filtered and the trees are very moss covered. This southern end of Crummock is lovely, with pebbly beaches and little coves leading down to the water's edge and lots of places to sit and picnic. It's just a delight here and a real suntrap if you get the weather. The Fish Inn or the Bridge Inn are great places to have refreshments afterwards.

Fleetwith Pike

This is an absolute favourite and there is more than one route to choose from, but a slightly different way is to take the Honister Rambler bus from Keswick to the Honister Slate Mine which is a really relaxing way to start. Circling the foot of Catbells,  you get wonderful views across Derwentwater. The route from the mine follows the quarry path up to Bell Crags and from there it's a straightforward walk to the summit which is just stunning. Looking straight down the length of Buttermere and Crummock Water, ringed by fells, it's a magical spot. Don't forget to the check the return bus times (we had a slight panic once that we'd missed the last one which we just caught)  and it can get really busy in peak times. Otherwise, there is plenty of parking available for £5.00 a day which is refundable against mine tours, the Via Ferrata or purchases in the shop over £10.00.

Arnison Crag

This is another of my absolute favourite areas to walk and is a moderate sized fell with huge views. Arnison is an outlying fell belonging to the Fairfield group and looks down on Patterdale village. The path up wends its way through the bracken following a lovely old dry stone wall and doesn't involve anything too strenuous, but your reward is a panorama of the Eastern fells and a corker of a view down Ullswater.

Tottlebank Height

This has the advantage (as does Carron Crag) of being one of Wainwright's Outlying Fells if you fancy a spot of peak bagging, but it's in a very quiet and beautiful area at the southern end of Coniston Water. Heading towards Blawith and parking off the road opposite the Giant's Grave, the walk can easily be combined with Blawith Knott if you fancy a longer outing. Magnificent views towards the Coniston Fells and over the Duddon Valley to Black Combe.

Carron Crag

Right in the middle of the beautiful Grizedale Forest, you have the added benefit of coffee and cake before you start, or tea and cake as you finish at the lovely Grizedale Cafe at the Visitors Centre. The forest has eight marked walking trails for all abilities, as well as mountain bike routes and forest roads. This walk follows the red marker posts up through the forest with gorgeous, far reaching views once you get to the top.  A lovely little summit area, not too strenuous walking and some interesting sculptures along the way.

What are you waiting for?!!

Spring in the Lakes

thornthwaite crag

Well, a fortnight's trip to the Lakes has been and gone far too quickly. We had a fabulous time, even if it didn't go quite as we planned. The weather was utterly amazing and we spent a fair amount of it in T-shirts, but then had a fall of snow on the last but one day, which made everything look magical.

We did beautiful Catstye Cam from Glenridding village whilst staying in the gorgeous Glenridding Hotel, which finished the Far Eastern fells for us as well as the whole ridge from Clough Head to Dollwaggon Pike. We took a steamer from Glenridding to Howtown and walked the length of pretty Fusedale up to Whether Hill which was a mopping up exercise as we'd done the rest of the ridge going back towards Pooley Bridge in a huge smog cloud a few years ago and, having walked 10 miles, didn't much fancy carrying on as it was irritating our chests and eyes. This completed the High Street ridge for us.

We did a big walk up the nose of Gray Crag from Hartsop, along the top of the glorious ridge to Thornthwaite Crag (another mop up from our High Street/Mardale Ill Bell day with a young dog we didn't want to push too far) and on to Froswick which was beautiful. We then went back up to Thornthwaite Crag and down Threshthwaite Mouth and along the Pasture Beck valley, but the next day Bro's knee swelled and he was laid up for a few days at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. I spent some time exploring; I went into Mickleden, up to Blea Tarn and Oak Howe which was all really lovely.

Our time in our favourite Buttermere was superb. We’re not very good at relaxing, but the weather was stunning, the views sublime and we were staying at the Fish Inn which was very comfortable and friendly. Bro’s knee improved to such an extent that we could walk to and and sit by Buttermere and Crummock, taking photos, paddling, reading, brewing coffee and enjoying the peace and quiet. There was no mobile signal, no wifi and no television, so we read lots, slept 10 hours a night and ate well. It was just what we needed without realising we needed it.

We then moved to a rented cottage in Keswick with the most fabulous panorama of the northern fells from the back bedroom window. We enjoyed some lovely gentle walks in the area; a gorgeous one around Crosthwaithe Parish Church, another round Derwent Water, round the pretty village of Braithwaite, explored Keswick and also in Whinlatter Forest watching the amazing bird life from the comfort and warmth of the cafe.

SWIRral edge towards helvellyn

Fusedale

Froswick from thornthwaite crag

So, while Bro couldn't really do any of the higher fells, he experimented with camera settings and the drone while I re-climbed Castle Crag, right up the hated slate pile this time that had slightly scared me twice before, meaning I didn’t go right to the very top. Bro decided on the last day he wanted to climb something small, as we’d be in the car for five hours the following day, so we climbed Rannerdale Knotts, an old favourite. His knee held up and he was able to manage the walk quite easily.

At home, he’s undergoing an intensive round of physio and a full recovery is looking promising.

fleetwith pike

BUTTERMERE valley from rannerdale knotts

crummock water from rannerdale summit

brew with a view

So, we have 46 more Wainwright fells to climb to complete the challenge, which feels achievable before we both get too old and decrepit. I say both; I was on fire.......

More Hidden Gems

When we are in the Lakes for a week or fortnight we always factor in days off otherwise the climbing can feel a little relentless and tiring, especially if you only have a limited time there. You do need a little time to re-charge so, if like us you have itchy feet and a desire to see as much of the area as possible and make the most of the time, here are a few suggestions of lovely, slightly out of the way places we've found and enjoyed.

Scaly Moss - this was on the way to climb a couple of  fells, but it was memorable enough for us to go back to. Mainly memorable for a herd of fell ponies cantering across the common, then wandering nonchalantly along the road. I adore horses and these beauties were very friendly. The area is just lovely to sit and admire the views, have a picnic or a wander, far from the madding crowd. Kinniside Stone Circle is also interesting, set on a rise just to the right of the top of the road in the picture.

free ranging fell ponies

Boon Wood, at the southern end of Coniston - this gently wooded, slightly sloping, grassy area is perfect for a picnic; five minutes from parking the car you can sit in the shade on the southern shores of Coniston Water with views up the lake and across the water to Brock Barrow and Low Light Haw on the eastern shore of the lake. Very peaceful.

Deepdale - we came across this area on our way up St Sunday Crag and it was gorgeous. Very secluded, very quiet and very beautiful running alongside Deepdale Beck, then sandwiched between the bulk of St Sunday and Fairfield, it would be a lovely place for a walk and a picnic in its own right. Lovely little Shetland ponies graze next to the track and we didn't see another soul all day.

Summit of Brae Fell, Back o'Skiddaw - a little fell with a big panorama towards Dumfries and Galloway. These Caldbeck Fells are lovely; lonely, grassy, not particularly high but surrounded by higher fells, it's a great place to wander or sit and relax and you can usually have it all to yourselves. Feels lovely and remote in winter.

from boon wood down the length of Coniston

Binsey - another little fell in a superb position. The furthest north of all the Wainwright peaks, it sits on its own looking back towards Skiddaw and the northern fells one way, and across the Solway Firth the other. An easy ascent of probably no more than an hour if taken slowly brings you to a flattish plateau area. Very peaceful, out of the way, this is  good one for a summer's evening.

Binsey’s summit cairn

Mousethwaite Comb - this area looks like a giant scoop has been taken out of the fell side. A steep path runs diagonally upwards, but it's the views back over Clough Head that are so worthwhile. At the top, you have options to go on either towards Sharp Edge or Bannerdale Crags, up Blencathra or over to Souther Fell. We've taken each route at various times, but on a calm, warm day, it's lovely to sit at the top and just take in those views.

the top of mousethwaite comb with the path snaking downwards

Angle Tarn - another gem and, judging from You Tube, also a popular wild camping site. This is in one of my favourite walking areas and there are a number of approaches. We've taken the path from Patterdale to Boredale Hause and walked the Coast to Coast path skirting Angletarn Crags, and also from Hartsop up to Hayeswater, then heading the other way on the Coast to Coast path. It's just so stunning and quiet and tucked away, you'd never know it was there unless you put some effort in. Always the best reward, I think.

Angle Tarn

Wonderful Winter walks with water

grasmere

Not everyone aspires to the heights in winter and there is great pleasure to be had in wrapping up warmly and going for a bracing winter's walk by water without expending too much energy, whilst still enjoying the views and rewarding yourself afterwards in the pub, by the fire. Here are a few favourite Lakeland suggestions.

Loweswater Lakeshore

Loweswater is one of the smallest lakes on the western edge of the National Park. It's the only lake where the water flows back towards the park and not towards the sea and is a beautiful, peaceful place. In two and half miles, the path will take you from Maggie's Bridge through Holme Wood and back again (you can continue right round by taking the road if you prefer a loop), giving you beautiful views of Mellbreak and the high fells round Buttermere. Reward your efforts in the Kirkstile Inn.

Circuit of Ennerdale

The most westerly of all the lakes and the most remote. It's a deep glacial lake and the only one with no roads running alongside it and which has been the subject of a successful rewilding project. Much of the pretty shoreline is National Trust owned, and the full walk is along the shoreline for about six and a half miles on good paths. The views are superb looking up the valley. Very tranquil.

ennerdale

Devoke Water

The biggest tarn and one of the highest in the Lake District, is just off the Birker Fell Road in Eskdale. Even on a warm day in the height of summer, it's still possible to be the only people there and the views are staggering. The path round the tarn is mostly good, but can get a little marshy in places and part of the loop will be via Water Crag and Rough Crag, but the climbs are not too strenuous.

Aira Force to Glenridding on the Ullswater Way

A three mile walk by what some say is Lakeland's most beautiful lake. Straightforward paths, some surfaced, some not, run alongside the lakeshore taking you through Glencoyne Deer Park, all the while enjoying the stunning views this beautiful area has in spades. There is a small stretch on the road, so take care. New last year was the Dalemain Loop of the Ullswater Way - a five mile route across fields and parkland.

Wise Een Tarn

Located in Claife Heights, a favourite area of Beatrix Potter, this pretty tarn has beautiful views over to the Langdale Pikes. There are a number of ways to reach the tarn with walks of varying lengths, but the paths are all good and not too taxing. It's a lovely, gentle area to explore, with glimpses of Lake Windermere along the way.

wise een tarn

Third time lucky!

helvellyn summit views

We did it. For the third time of trying. At last.

I would hazard a guess that if you asked most people to name a mountain in the Lake District, the answer is usually Helvellyn, This is now helped by it having been voted 'Britain's Favourite Walk'. We have been visiting the Lake District in earnest for well over a decade now, but when we tell people about our experiences of trying to complete the challenge of climbing all the Wainwright peaks, the question had always inevitably been 'have you climbed Helvellyn?' We were always slightly embarrassed to admit that we hadn’t.

The first attempt failed because we were woefully unprepared in almost every way, so that attempt was aborted at Grisedale Tarn. Attempt two was slightly better from a preparation point of view, but the weather, coldness and Bro's thigh cramp scuppered that attempt, but we were at least on the Dollywaggon end of the Helvellyn ridge that time. Fast forward half a dozen years and lessons have been learnt, mistakes rectified, experiences put into practice and we finally conquered the mountain.

thirlmere from the climb up brown cove

worth the wait - the view from helvellyn

We have been to Swirls car park opposite Thirlmere countless times over the years. With an old dog, then a young dog then a sick dog, it provided a lovely little spot to park and take a really gentle walk up to Helvellyn Gill where the dogs could potter around by or in the water, without any real effort. The views down the valley towards Skiddaw gave the humans something to look at as well. This time it was different.

We once met a couple on Tarn Crag and got talking about climbing the Wainwrights. They had at that time done around 50, as had we. The difference was that they had done the 50 highest and we, the 50 lowest. As we parted, Bro and I pondered which approach was best. A friend of mine who had never been to the Lakes before, went with her new husband who persuaded her to climb 'something'. That something was Scafell Pike and she hated every minute of it and hasn't been back since. I really think, for us, it has been better to build up to the bigger fells; to make all our mistakes on the relative safety of grassy banks with lower elevations and shorter distances. For all of the first half of the Wainwrights, we had a hugely strong dog on a lead with us, which could have been dangerous on some of the bigger, rockier fells. We've also been able to build up fitness, amass all the right equipment, work out what food and drinks works for us and most importantly, enjoy it and face it with the right attitude.

striding edge from helvellyn

yes, i did look at the view!

So back to Swirls car park. We decided to go for the rocky path up to Brown Cove; a 2.5km climb which is not too bad, if a little relentless, but with the added advantage of gaining height quickly. The views of Thirlmere and the northern fells were welcomed at each pause for a breather. Eventually, we summited on a lovely mild September morning and had breathtaking panoramas all around us. It was wonderful and real sense of achievement.

striding edge

helvellyn’s summit trig point

Hail and hearty!

We haven’t been back from the Lakes for long and I'm already missing it. Strange yes, without our furry buddy, and while we tried not to visit too many places with strong associations, it was still disconcerting and upsetting to be walking without a dog after the last 16 or so years with one or other. Anyway, we decided to tackle a few high fells that had been in mind for ages and for one reason or another, hadn't been done. These are what we climbed in four days.

Dollywaggon Pike: We first attempted this about seven years ago when we were green, naive and inexperienced. We walked (slowly) up from Patterdale in torrential rain, got cold and wet and Bro got the worst cramp of his life on the ridge so we went straight back down without actually reaching the summit. This time we went up the Raise Beck gully from Dunmail Raise, branching slightly left before Grisedale Tarn and tackling the immensely steep grass bank which leads you up onto the ridge. As we started this slightly soul destroying climb, the heavens opened and a job lot of hail was deposited on us from then until the minute we got back to the car. It was absolutely freezing on the summit, but we did get the views, so that made up for the drenching!

Absolutely baltic

Mellbreak: We've done a few in the Loweswater area and Mellbreak was the lowest of the ones we still wanted to do. We set off a bit later than usual in beautiful sun, after treating ourselves to coffee at the Kirkstile Inn before we started. The path down Mosedale was lovely with fantastic views of the famous lonely Holly Tree, and Hen Comb on the opposite side of the valley. After a while, we decided to turn left directly up the side of Mellbreak, about half way along its length. This brought us out on a sort of saddle in the middle and it was an easy walk to the top. Once again, the hail hit us, but it couldn't dampen our enjoyment of the stunning views down the full length of Crummock and Buttermere to Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks. No wonder lots of people have told us it's their favourite.

what a view

Blencathra: Another we'd been wanting to do for ages and it was a beautiful day. In the valley. We parked at the bottom of Mousethwaite Combe quite early where there was an older lady and another couple about the same age as us already there, and we only saw each other all morning! As we started the climb up from the top of Mousethwaite Combe, the cloud/mist came down and that was it for the rest of our time on Blencathra. I quite like walking in the mist; it's really quiet, a bit spooky and it also hides the climb ahead so it seemed in no time at all we had run out of mountain and realised we were on the summit, but couldn't see anything. The mist cleared on the way down and we did get views which were stunning and we both really enjoyed this one. Obviously it was a beautiful day when we got back to the car and the cloud/mist lifted for the rest of the afternoon.....

just beginning to see the views…..on the way back down

Helvellyn & Nethermost Pike: Yes, after all this time, we still hadn't climbed Helvellyn. In the south, most people I speak to have heard of Helvellyn and yes, every time they ask if we've climbed it.....We have tried twice before and have been thwarted, once by our own woeful inadequacy and then by the aforementioned Dollywaggon Pike experience when we didn't even reach that summit. So, fully prepared this time and again, in beautiful, hot sun we set off from the Swirls car park, taking the direct route up to Brown Cove. Steep, but short, on a fantastically well made rocky path. The views over Thirlmere and beyond were stunning and made the climb easier. Once on the broad summit plateau, there were jaw dropping views in all directions, but especially down to Red Tarn and over Striding and Swirral Edges. We decided to go on to Nethermost Pike and we got more wonderful views down the Grisedale Valley towards Patterdale. As we turned to go back up to Helvellyn again, the cloud descended and we couldn't see anything, but we had had the views. We ate a soggy sandwich in the shelter with a few others, then began the long, wet, windy descent. As we got lower, the weather improved and we ended with a well earned meal in the Kings Head.

just stunning

THe view towards patterdale

On our last day, we bumped into and had a chat with Chris Jesty, then took a boat from Waterhead to Bowness, had lunch and a walk around and sailed back. It had been a wonderful week with some great weather, wonderful walks and relaxation after a difficult August. We'll be back in November for some winter summiting. And more hail no doubt.

Favourite Fell Days: Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks, Brandreth and Grey Knotts

fabulous on HAYSTACKS summit

On a beautiful June day three years ago on Bro's birthday, we decided to tackle Fleetwith Pike, but then extended the walk to take in Haystacks, Brandreth and Grey Knotts to make a fantastic circular walk.

Parking in Keswick, we took the Honister Rambler up to Honister Slate Mine which is a great little bus ride with the added benefits of being able to enjoy the scenery and take the dog. The weather was as perfect as it could be; sharp, crystal clear light, a soft breeze but not too hot and being mid week, not that many people around either.

After a fortifying coffee and the best ever Rice Krispie cake from the mine's café, we set off up the track towards Bell Crags, then took our own slightly off piste route up and popped out above the old Hopper Quarry. A simple, undulating walk brought us to Fleetwith's summit and breathtaking it was too; surely one of the best views we'd seen so far on our walks. We stopped for a while just to drink it all in and took lots of photos, one of which ended up in Trail, The Great Outdoors, Trek & Mountain and Lakeland Walker magazines!

From Fleetwith, it was a fairly straightforward, though steep, descent down towards Dubs Quarry, across Warnscale Beck and then a good, rocky path on up to Haystacks. We had a lunch stop at Blackbeck Tarn, then took another slightly off piste round round Green Crag to avoid the sharp drops which weren’t appealing with a dog straining at the lead. From there it was a good, solid route up to Innominate Tarn where we paid our respects to Wainwright, then hot footed it up to the summit. And hot it certainly was, but there was lovely breeze on the top and the views were just amazing - right down the length of Buttermere and Crummock one way, then swinging round to Great and Green Gable behind with the Ennerdale Valley to the west.

Just beautiful

Fleetwith’s STUNNING summit views

After relaxing in the sun and something to eat and drink, we skirted Innominate Tarn and set off for Brandreth. At a stile in a fence, the path splits, high and low and of course we took the lower route which led away from Brandreth's summit. In our defence, we were distracted talking to a German chap who was walking the entire National Park from west to east and wasn’t too sure of his route.

When we realised we were slightly too far along the lower path, we checked the map and found we were in between Brandreth and Grey Knotts, so we took a direct route straight up and came out on the saddle between the two summits, looking from one to the other like demented tennis watchers.

Having been in this position several times before and ALWAYS making the wrong decision, experience has taught us to backtrack, so back we went to Brandreth, reasoning it would be a lot more effort to come all this way again and knowing that once you're actually on the path, it never seems that far and it wasn’t; really only about 15 minutes to reach the summit plateau, so we were quite pleased with our decision. We lingered a while, before setting off along the ridge back to the summit of Grey Knotts which was very simple and straightforward with fabulous views all around. It was then just a case of nipping back down the nose of Grey Knotts to the mine again.

innominate tarn on haystacks

wonderful views from haystacks on the way to brandreth

brandreth’s summit

A fabulous walk in perfect conditions with some of the best views yet. A great day.

Delightful Discoveries

We've been tramping around the Lake District for well over a decade now and have happened upon some lovely areas that I'm sure we wouldn't have if we hadn't been climbing and walking in some of the more remote areas. I thought I'd share some, but keep them to yourself otherwise everyone'll be there!

Back o'Skidda

I'm sure those in the know will be fully aware of this area, but I think it's still fairly remote, a little off the well worn track, very lonely and utterly beautiful. We walked for 10 miles all over the fells there a couple of years back and didn't see a soul all day.

Uldale Common

Dock Tarn

We climbed very steeply up from Rosthwaite on our way to Great Crag and Grange Fell a few years ago and came across this tarn tucked away amongst the bracken. It's a stunning spot to have a lunch break out of the wind and everywhere you look there are amazing views. A little gem.

Dock Tarn

The view from Rough Crag, Devoke Water

Last year we did the round of the six Outlying Fells surrounding Devoke Water and what a belter of a day that was. Warm, sunny and still and only one other person in the distance all day. The views were breathtaking, the walking straightforward - a day that made you glad to be alive. I chose this one because it's just so darn pretty. Actually, the views from all six summits are stunning.

rough crag’s view - not rough at all

Apronful of Stones

This delightful area sits at the base of the sublime Carrock Fell in the northern fells. Coming down from the summit, this is a lovely, quiet, flat area, slightly reminiscent of the New Forest where we lay with our shoes off, eating rehydrated meatballs and spaghetti. What’s not to love?!

Apronful of Stones

Green Crag Plateau

I'm including this because it was unexpected, as well as beautiful, but it was essentially miles and miles of bog. What was unexpected was that you did a fairly lengthy and steep climb up from the Birker Road (we went to Great Worm Crag first of all) and it was almost as though you were in another, secret place altogether; one you couldn't see from the road and wouldn't know was there unless you climbed. We still had a fairly lengthy and energy sapping boggy climb up to Green Crag from there, but it shows there is another, high level Lake District waiting to be discovered.

views from green crag over the bog

The Stanah Gill pool

This is a lovely, tiny glade on the way up or down Sticks Pass from Legburthwaite. There is a tiny waterfall dropping into a lovely crystal clear pool which, on a hot day, is a welcome cooling off point after a long day on the Dodds - just the right size for a large dog or your bare feet.

lovely and cool on a hot day

Favourite Fell Days : Skiddaw, Skiddaw Little Man and Lonscale Fell

views over keswick on the climb up skiddaw

Continuing the next in the set of my favourite and most memorable mountain days, Skiddaw last October sticks in my mind. It wasn't the best weather wise but it was one of those days at the end of a week of high level walking where everything comes together and you feel great. No aches and pains, no tiredness, no effort to be honest; days when you feel you could go on for miles.

crepuscular rays over clough head

The day was misty, a bit murky and blowing a gale at the top. The clouds scudded over the landscape as we climbed, giving tantalising glimpses of the views, then hiding them again. After climbing Jenkin Hill, we reached the plateau that leads to the base of Little Man where it was very quiet, the wind had dropped and the mist had settled. On Little Man’s summit however, the wind hit again with some force; strong enough not to try and get the camera out, so we carried on towards Skiddaw which was completely hidden in cloud at that point but at least you couldn’t see how much you had to climb!

little man on little man

As we approached the final pull up to the summit, the mist lifted and we had amazing views down to Keswick and Bassenthwaite basking in the sun that was eluding us. On the summit plateau (which we had to ourselves at that point), the wind was so strong you had to brace against it, but it was exhilarating. At the trig point though, it really was strong and much colder, so we hunkered down in the shelter for some refreshment and were joined by a fell runner donning more clothing before racing off back to Little Man.

sumimt of skiddaw

the cloud lifting for views of bassenthwaite

back o’skidda

As we made our way back down, the summit became much busier, the sun came out and the wind weakened. We dropped down along the path on Skiddaw's eastern flank towards Lonscale Fell which was pretty flat and straightforward, with views to Blencathra and the Back o'Skiddaw accompanying us all the way.

Lonscale Fell is a fairly easy grassy up and back and, after a bite to eat, a bit of 'off roading' saw us back on the path down to the car again which we did at a jog - it only took 20 minutes or so from there and was good fun.

The best part of the day was the Bean on the Fells van serving hot chocolate with marshmallows, lovely home made cakes. free doggy treats and chatting with others about their day in the hills; the perfect end to a perfect day.

loving it

Conistonishing!

the coniston fells

We've just had a lovely week in the Lakes staying in Coniston village, which we haven't done before. Our four legged walking buddy hasn't been at full fitness recently, so we decided to tackle some Outlying Fells which tend to be shorter walks with less climbing, but have equally breathtaking views. We’ve climbed all of the 'big' ones in this area, so it was lovely to see some alternative views, especially on the eastern shore of the Lake, and we just love the whole Torver Common area, which is great for gentle walks and picnics.

We had a fantastic week and didn't move out of the Coniston area - which is lovely - at all. We had warm, sunny weather all week and the dog did really, really well. We ended the week climbing Walna Scar which, at 2000ft, is the highest Outlyer and afforded us some beautiful views.

I can highly recommend the gorgeous Black Bull’s fabulous roast beef on a Sunday. The Crown, the Yewdale and the Sun Inn all serve great food and are dog friendly. There’s a lovely new cafe called Herdwicks, which has amazing cakes and lots of Hardwick related products for sale, and size of the breads and pastries in the little bakery on Yewdale Road have to be seen to be believed!

admiring the views on the way to the top o’selside

tottlebank height

on the way to yew bank

yew bank’s summit looking to the coniston range

yew bank with black combe in the background

coppermine valley

high lite haw on coniston’s eastern shore

brock barrow’s summit looking down coniston water

walna scar’s fairly measly cairn with harter fell in the background looking like mount doom

Beautiful backdrops beat big birthday blues

the coast to coast path above patterdale

Well, the actual day of my 'big' birthday has just been and gone and I can’t quite believe it. Still, I reasoned that if it really had to happen, then at least I would be in my favourite place. As luck would have it, the weather at the beginning of October couldn't have been better. A slight crispness in the air, crystal clear light and wonderfully sunny with only one day of rain and even that didn't last long.

We had a fantastic week of high fell walking and bagged Great Rigg, Fairfield, High Street, Mardale Ill Bell, High and Low Pike, Skiddaw, Little Man and Lonscale Fell and it was one of those weeks (in spite of my now advancing age) that we both felt really fit and strong, didn't have any niggly aches or pains and could have kept going and going. One of those weeks you remember - despite the birthday (or perhaps because of it) - rounded off by a fantastic, if windy, day on Skiddaw.

On my actual birthday, we were on High Street and Mardale Ill Bell and it was truly magnificent; I genuinely didn't want to be anywhere else in the world, so thank you Lake District for making the day a truly memorable one! The best bit of the Skiddaw, Skiddaw Little Man and Lonscale Fell day was coming down to the parking area and seeing the 'Bean on the Fell's coffee van. Hot chocolate with cream, marshmallows, free dog treats and lots of like minded people discussing their day was just what was needed and a real treat.

GRASmere from the climb up to great rigg

great rigg on the left and the ridge to fairfield

what a place to be on your birthday! on mardale ill bell

low pike from high pike

the view from skiddaw’s blustery summit

Wonderful Wasdale

the country’s favourite view!

We've just got back from another week in our beloved Lake District and this time we decided to stay near Wasdale and climb in that area. We mixed up some higher and lower fells, still picking fairly carefully as the dog is young, but hit a week of really beautiful weather and managed 14 summits in all, as well as visiting Ravenglass, St Bees and discovering some Roman ruins

I hope the pictures do justice to this beautiful and remote area.

a complete round of the six summits of devoke water and not a soul around!

devoke water - a perfect setting on a perfect day

big views down wasdale from little irton pike

a fabulous day climbing great worm crag and green crag - lots of boggy ground but stunning views

panoramic views from muncaster fell

ravenglass estuary

the romas bath house outside ravenglass - the tallest roman remains in northern england

WASDALE head from illgill head

views to the coast from whin rigg

st bees

one for another day!

Making Tracks

green lanes of the KENtmere valley

Having just discovered my first lonning in Cumbria last week, I though I'd look into old trackways a little more and it turns out to be a vast network; in fact the United Kingdom is crisscrossed with ancient paths and tracks.

As well as the longer, more well known paths, there are hundreds of small, secret, almost forgotten pathways that go by many different names: holloways, green lanes, barfs, sunken lanes, greenways, trods, byways, driftways, lonnens, loanins, lonnings, lons, droveways, pilgrimage routes, miners paths, trading paths, packhorse routes, reivers roads, military roads, turnpikes, shieling paths, boreens, bealachs, casans, smugglers paths, timber trackways, corduroy trackways, herepaths, herewags, heargways, toghers, slighes, ridgeways, watershed routes and many more

Huntingstile Lonning, Grasmere

TICKLE BELLY alley lonning, boot

ticklebelly alley

Many follow the natural contours of the landscape; rivers, ridges, valleys; perhaps more solid ground or firmer sand, over mountain passes and through marshy or boggy ground and to fording points of rivers and streams. Many have neolithic origins such as The Ridgeway which was in use 5000 years ago or the Sweet Track which is perhaps 5800 years old. Some are Saxon, some Celtic, lots are Roman such as the Fosse Way or Watling Street and were built over older trackways, some are medieval - the Long Causeway - and some are later still; 17th or 18th century such as the Keighley and Kendal Turnpike or the Sparrow Herme Turnpike.

However, these routes, which also include the Corlea Trackway, Icknield Way, Harrow Way, Pilgrim's Way, Mariner's Way, Saints Way, the Old Way, Broomway, Kennet Avenue, Ermine Street, Dere Street, the Peddars Way and the Devil's Causeway were all well used. The green lanes or lonnings or holloways were more rural; used for driving livestock, travelling between settlements, or were eroded by water, marked boundaries between two landowners and some do date back to the Romans and Iron Age.

Sunken lanes are characterised by quite steep sides and hedgerows, packhorse routes tend to be narrower, drovers routes are wide, trods are fairly indistinguishable, barfs are quite steep and green lanes were unpaved and sometimes only known to locals.

green lanes of the KENtmere valley

the Ridgeway

What is sad today, is that a lot are disappearing; either through a lack of use and have become too overgrown, some are being upgraded to byways, some have become proper roads, hedgerows have being grubbed up to make way for larger fields and these beautiful little corridors through the landscape have been lost  - occasionally just a rut in the landscape is all that's left.

Let's not lose them. Let's search them out and use them. Let's listen to Joni Mitchell and not go down the 'pave paradise, put up a parking lot' route; there are hundreds of better paths to choose.

old woodland paths

now this i swear is a hobbit hole

Favourite Fell Days: Dale Head and Hindscarth

setting off from honister slate mine

At the end of our annual two weeks in June last year, we decided to finish on Dale Head and Hindscarth. It was the most beautiful day as we parked in Keswick and took the Honister Rambler bus up to the Slate Mine which was a lovely, relaxing way to start, and they allow dogs.

Getting off at the mine, we decided to be civilised and have a cup of coffee first (in reality, an excuse to have a piece of their superb Rice Krispie cake). Suitably refreshed, we headed back towards the Youth Hostel and strode briskly up the path opposite; I say briskly, but we were sloshing with coffee and Krispie cake at that point, so it was more of a stroll. As you gain height towards Fox Fold, the views start opening out with Honister Crags dominating the near ground, but also over to the Helvellyn range and across to Bowfell and Great End.

the views opening out as you climb higher

the mine paths

dale head looking towards skiddaw and blencathra

just stunning

The path continued upwards hugging the fence to our left and wasn't really too steep although longish, and it was quite warm. As you begin the final pull to the summit, the path gets a little steeper, but it's soon over and you’re on the flat summit plateau. There's a huge, solid cairn and the views down the Newlands Valley and to Skiddaw are truly breathtaking.

After quarter of an hour or so, we set off along Hindscarth Ridge following a well trodden, easy path with the most amazing views all around us, especially of Fleetwith Pike, and the views down into our favourite Buttermere Valley. In the bright sunlight, it was all just stunning and such a pleasure. The route to Hindscarth's summit drops down off Dale Head but is otherwise flat and the summit was easily reached quite quickly. We spent some time there enjoying the views, the peace and the sun before making our way back to Dale Head again to spend more time there again, enjoying the views.

We had some sandwiches on the top, a bit of a fully clad sunbathe and an interesting chat with Duncan and Yvonne Booth, the organisers of the 10 in 10 challenge (www.10in10.org.uk) who were planning the next route. After that, it was sadly time to turn our backs on the beautiful views and begin the easy descent to the mine again, just in time for the return bus.

from dale head looing towards hindscarth

on the ridge to hindscarth

buttermere and crummock water views opening up from the ridge to hindscarth

hindscarth’s summit

back to the start again

A truly memorable day. Low on effort, big on reward, fantastic views, warm sun, peace and quiet. Just what you want.

Except more Rice Krispie cake.