WE FINISHED!!

After an enjoyable short break in September to Madeira and just before a lovely work trip to St Kitts & Nevis in November, we had our final visit of the year to the Lakes. With 12 Outlying Fells left to climb to finish them all, we had originally booked a week in mid October and planned to climb ten fells from Ravenglass, but our elderly parents and Bro all contracted Covid, so we cancelled that week and instead added three extra nights on to our November trip. 

We have, for the last three years, treated ourselves to a stay in a rather luxurious flat in Ambleside, and this year was no exception. The week was intended to be more leisurely and relaxing, back in the centre of the Lake District after our weeks in the far east or west of the region. We had planned to climb ten fells in October, leaving just two to do in the Kentmere Valley in November, so plans were quickly changed and it all worked well . The only slight exception were three three fairly lengthy drives of around an hour and a quarter each way, but it was no real hardship. We were very lucky with the weather in some respects; it was dry and mild enough for just a fleece, but there was a great deal of low lying cloud and fog which blanketed most of the country for that week. The previous week was wet and the following week was very cold with snow, so we think we were lucky, even though we didn't always get the views which was a shame.

Our first walk was from St Cuthbert's Church in the Kentmere Valley and we did have the views on this walk. We were tackling Hollow Moor and Nameless (Green Quarter Fell) and it was a very easy and enjoyable walk over gently undulating ground, with the Kentmere valley looking gorgeous in its autumn colours. A ruined barn was a welcome rest spot which had lovely views of Skeggles Water and the Bannisdale Horseshoe. A group of black and white fell ponies watched our descent.

The next objectives were Caw, Pikes and Green Pikes, starting from the hamlet of Seathwaite in the Duddon Valley. The day was mild and clear and the walk to Caw was very straightforward up to the old mine workings. As we were exploring the adit and the buildings, the cloud descended and we didn't emerge from it until our descent. From the mine workings, there was a bit of a steeper pull up, but nothing difficult and we soon came to the large trig point. There was a freezing wind and thick cloud on the top and it was such a shame we couldn't see the views, but we'd still enjoyed the walk. Carrying on through the mist was a navigation excercise, but after about twenty minutes we arrived at Pikes. No cairn this time, merely a small darker coloured rock balanced on an outcrop so we didn't linger long before setting off towards Green Pikes. This took a little longer as we made a slightly wrong turn but even so, we were soon on the narrow summit with its tiny marker stone and a bitterly cold wind. Our return route was quick and easy, stopping for a flask of hot pea soup before a lovely walk down into the valley, now out of the cloud and wind, affording us wonderful views.

The third walk of the week was in an area we really didn't know, starting from high on the Corney Fell Road and taking in Buck Barrow, Kinmont Buck Barrow, Burn Moor and Whitfell. The fog was extremely thick and it was a little disconcerting only being able to see about twenty feet ahead, but we didn’t take any wrong turns. We had a map and compass and took bearings every so often, noting them on one of our phones, while keeping the other off to conserve batteries, and used a fully charged GPS device with a spare power source. Even so, it was a navigation exercise, but one that Bro is extremely adept at now after all these years and I had complete confidence. The walking was very straightforward, although very marshy, and we walked quickly following what were probably sheep trails, pulling a Swaledale out of a bog on the way to Burn Moor, feeling very pleased as we watched her trotting off to join her flock. After enjoying hot chicken and vegetable soup on Whitfell’s rather cold and damp summit, the return was much quicker and we were soon back at the car, having enjoyed the walk, even if we had only had the odd fleeing view.

Sadly that ended our week in the lovely Ambleside flat which had been warm, comfortable and convenient. We set off for Ravenglass, for three nights at the lovely Pennington Hotel, somewhere we'd stayed before. It too was warm, comfortable, the food was superb and we again had views of the estuary from our room watching incredible sunsets and birdlife. We decided that, as the weather was predicted to be fine on the Monday, we would wait until then for our final walk, leaving us with a free day. We ambled along the estuary at low tide, re-visiting the Roman Bath House, and carried further along the water’s edge to climb a small and prominent peak, Newton Knott. The views were amazing in all directions.

The day of our very last Outlying Fell dawned warm, clear and sunny. We were on the road by 7.30am and walking half an hour later. The pull up to the first summit of the day, White Combe, was steep but the views of the Upper Whicham Valley and the Duddon Estuary were stunning and we were warm in just fleeces; even on the summit, there was only the gentlest of breezes. We were filming ourselves with a view to making a film of this last walk as we’d done at the end of climbing the 214, so we spent some time getting different shots and angles before heading off in a more or less straight line to Stoupdale Head; a simple, flattish walk of perhaps a mile or so. We found this summit a little less inspiring than the last, although the views towards Black Combe were magnificent. It was then a very simple, enjoyable walk of about two miles past Whitecombe Head on a grassy, gently rising path, in glorious sunshine with all the views we could wish for. We approached the large wind shelter containing the trig point on the summit together, touching the top at the same time, then hugged, looked at each other and heaved a sigh of contented relief. We'd done it!

It wasn't quite as emotional an ending as the 214 had been, but it still felt very satisfying and we were delighted. We had a half bottle of Champagne in celebration and set about taking lots of photos before we were joined by another couple and then an older gentleman with whom we had an interesting chat. It started to get a little cooler as it was well into the afternoon by then and we must have been on the summit for about an hour, so we headed off via the south summit, before taking a steep route down past the Black Combe crags into the Whitecombe Valley which was gorgeous, and back to the car.

It feels bittersweet to have finished all 214 of Wainwright’s designated mountains, 116 of his Outlying fells and therefore the 330 fells and mountains of the Lake District. We’re incredibly pleased, delighted, chuffed, proud and even slightly surprised we’ve finished. It’s also incredibly sad though, not to be planning next year’s routes and summits as we’ve done for the past 15 or so winters.

It’s been an amazing, shared time and we have genuinely loved every minute. It’s been hard, frustrating, exhausting and challenging at times, but it’s also been gratifying, absorbing, exhilarating and thoroughly enjoyable. It has done wonders for our physical health, our general mental wellbeing, our tenacity, strength and stamina. It has changed us in so many ways for the better; we have more confidence, more determination and more positivity. We know we can put up with hours in great heat and bitter cold, torrential rain and freezing gales. We know we can keep going for ten hours over fairly tough terrian. Physically, we are more aware of our bodies and are fitter, stronger, faster and more toned. Along the way, we've learned about navigation, map reading, compass use, topography, first aid, weather patterns, geology, wildlife, bird life and local history, as well as meeting lots of lovely like minded people; all of which has enriched this wonderful experience.

I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and lots of safe and happy walking and climbing adventures in 2025 - perhaps you may even consider starting a new challenge….!!

The Lakes in Spring

Our second visit of the year to the Lakes in May was in complete contrast to our week in March. This time, we were blessed with wonderful weather and it reminded us how lovely it is to walk in Tshirts when it's warm and relatively dry underfoot. This was to be our final visit to the north eastern Lakes, climbing the last of nine Shap Fells we had left to do. 

Our first, and longest, walk was the Wet Sleddale Horseshoe, onto which we also tacked Wasdale Pike and it was quite a long, physical day. The weather was overcast with some light drizzle at the beginning of the morning, but it was thankfully warm. Underfoot was very marshy and running wet in parts, but for the most part dry. Navigation wasn't a problem even though there weren't any discernible paths, but the terrain was hard going - uneven, rough grass, hidden rocks, vast swathes of heather and lots of undulation. However, we also had beautiful views down the length of Wet Sleddale and across to Swindale, but it felt very remote indeed and we didn't meet or see anyone else all day. Wet Sleddale is a pretty valley, and it was lovely to see it from a different angle. 

A visit to Temple Sowerby and Acorn Bank provided an opportunity to visit a new area, and we thoroughly enjoyed wandering round the beautiful gardens and orchards, before following the wonderfully named Crowdundle Beck to a small working mill, then back along a woodland path lined with the most prolific swathes of wild garlic we've ever seen. The sight and smell was incredible and ran from the mill all the way back to the main house. 

The following day found us out early to drive the thirty or so miles to Keswick to attend the Mountain Festival for a second time. The weather was perfect and it was wonderful to be back in amongst the scenery of the northern fells once again. We wandered down and round Derwentwater taking photos. then had a cup of coffee outside at the Lakeside Cafe, before spending time at the lively festival. Lunch was at the lovely Elm Cafe in George Fisher's which was Abrahams when we last ate there, but the changes were lovely and the food was delicious. Somewhat reluctantly, we left Keswick later that afternoon and headed back to Shap, checking into the Shap Wells Hotel for our second stay there, heading immediately up into their little woodland to watch the Red Squirrels which was a delight. The weather was now beautifully warm.

Todd Fell and Whiteside Pike were next on our list to tackle, and they were absolutely stunning. The sun was bright, it was warm and dry, there was a profusion of wildflowers and lambs, and the whole walk only took us around two hours,, so we were able to drink it all in. Bannisdale looked stunning, with vast sweeps of bluebells carpeting the fellside. A gentler day followed and we spent a lot of time in the woods back at the hotel, watching, photographing and filming the squirrels which was magical. We made the short drive to pretty Orton village to buy one or two food items that afternoon to take with us on our walk the next morning; the Crookdale Horseshoe. 

As the weather was forecast to be much warmer, we were on the fellside at 7am in the cool of a misty morning. Walking along the ridge from High House Bank to Robin Hood then on to Lord's Seat, was delightful; easy, only very slightly undulating, warm, clear, dry, on a path of sorts and with wonderful views in all directions. We made good time and enjoyed every minute, sitting for some time on each summit. From Lord’s Seat, we headed off piste towards Crookdale Beck, where we stopped for coffee and a bite to eat observed by a herd of curious sheep, before heading back up and over Whatshaw Common, meeting two fellow outlying fell walkers and enjoying an interesting half hour chat with them.

We headed home early the next morning as rain was forecast, but it had been a wonderful, enjoyable week. We were a little sad to have finished the Shap Fells; indeed all the eastern fells now, in this beautiful and remote corner of the National Park. Our next visit will be to the west coast, but I think often and with much affection about those gentle fells and the red squirrels in that special, magical little woodland.  

The Shap Fells

The hottest August on record saw us in the far east of the Lake District, walking the Shap Fells as part of our quest to complete Wainwright's outlying fells.

The hills here do not comprise individual, distinctive peaks but are rather a rolling massif of grassland and distinctive pink granite. The landscape around the pretty, linear village of Shap is beautiful; pastoral, gentle and far reaching with panoramas on a scale we have not often seen in the Lakes.

The remote valley of Wet Sleddale was a delight. It felt truly unspoiled, filled with birdsong, trees and small hillocks covered in purple flowering heather. The reservoir, although obviously a man made shape when viewed from above, had wading birds around the shoreline, was Scots Pine lined and very pleasant to walk beside on a warm early morning. The fells above Wet Sleddale were rolling rather than steep, grassy rather than rocky and completely devoid of people, even in the middle of August. Vast grasslands, small tarns and stunning views made this a wonderfully peaceful place to walk, then sit and admire the panoramas.

The limestone outcrop of Knipescar Common has become a firm favourite. A beautiful plateau with the most incredible panorama; stretching from the village of Shap, to all the high fells around Haweswater, to the northern fells and right round to the Pennines. An absolutely extraordinary view from a very modest little fell. Time was spent hunting for a stone circle or ancient enclosure in the bracken, finding stones but unable to view the whole, then enjoying something to eat in what has to be one of the most beautiful lunch spots.

High on the Shap Fells, we ventured over towards Crookdale early one morning, climbing over surprisingly marshy ground as the heat began to build. Toiling up the first grass covered bulk, we stopped often to catch our breath and the breeze, and to take on water. The summit was shimmering in a haze of heat, and time was spent searching for the three small stones making up the summit. Discussions were had as to whether to venture on to another, higher peak given the heat, but on we ploughed. The breeze thankfully cooled us as we climbed higher; the views opening out over Crookdale, the Long Sleddale fells and the hazy Pennines on the horizon. The summit was unclear; we ventured on further, wasting precious energy, then had to re-trace our steps and climb a wall in order to find a concrete summit ring buried in the grass, marking the true summit. The descent was swift, but in the bottom of the small valley out of the breeze, the heat had reached fearsome proportions and, after labouring up the other side of the valley, we felt ourselves overheating and dripping with perspiration. A quick breather, taking long, deep gulps of water and dousing ourselves liberally from a small marshy pool, revived us enough at the end of the climb for the walk back to the car to a welcome change of clothes and refreshment.

A beautiful area; one that really made an impression on us and one we will return to, of that I have no doubt.

beautiful wet sleddale

SCOTS PINES ALONG THE SHORE

views from the fells above wet sleddale

photos don’t do the panorama from knipescar common justice

crookdale