Lakeland Part 2: The Low Hills

newton fell north looking towards the fells

STAVELY fell’s views of windermere. a fabulous little walk

As the dog is still so young and tends to get over-excited at, well, just about everything, we mixed up our walking days on a recent visit to the Lakes. We had one or two longer days, some non climbing days and tackled some of Wainwright’s Outlying fells which are ideal as they’re short, gentle walks for him and have great views for us.

We also had two or three days of torrential rain and so made those the non climbing days and these were spent in and around Grasmere and Ambleside and visiting Keswick Mountain Festival, which was a first for us and a lovely way to spend a morning. All in all, for the dog’s first proper walking holiday, a lovely mix of fells; 15 in all.

keswick mountain festival with ominous clouds - it closed in the afternoon because of high winds

windermere views from todd crag

lovely stone bench to sit and admire ullswater

beautiful ullswater from heughscar hill

newton fell north - on the way to the motorway!

Lakeland Part 1: The High Hills

views from harter fell

We've just come back from two weeks in the Lakes. It was the dog’s first proper walking holiday, and even though he's been three times already, he was too young to take on proper walks at those time. This blog focuses on the high fells and the next one will detail the lower fells we tackled.

The first day saw us climbing Sticks Pass to Stybarrow Dodd (which Bro and I had climbed before without a dog in a bitterly cold, sleety/rainy whiteout) and on to Watsons Dodd which completed the Dodds for us whilst enjoying fantastic views of the northern fells.

We did quite a long walk up to Caudale Moor and on to Hartsop Fell and back, taking refreshment at the Kirkstone Inn on the way back, enjoying the open fire and lots of like minded chat with fellow walkers. The dog did amazingly well on a fairly soggy day on Shipman Knotts and a howling gale on Kentmere Pike, and we enjoyed a great, sunny walk up to Harter Fell overlooking Haweswater, where we joined two ladies who were completing their round of the 214 Wainwright fells, taking their photos and celebrating with toffee vodka. A mostly sunny fortnight with a couple of days of rain made for great walking weather and we did 15 mountains.

The dog was brilliant; fearless, enthusiastic and unfazed by anything. Except sheep. And cairns. Oh, and boulders. And rustling bags…

the northern fells from sticks pass

on to watson’s dodd from stybarrow dodd

second time for us on stonycove pike/caudale moor

approaching HARtsop fell from caudale moor looking to ullswater

the KENtmere valley

the KENtmere valley

the gatesgarth pass from harter fell looking across to BRAnstree

haweswater from harter fell

PERFECT,,,,

The Blob...

the blob

I love anything weird, wonderful, odd, spooky and bizarre, and the Blob, also known as Star Jelly is one of those things. Nobody really knows what it is. It has been found all over the Lakes and only in the Lakes, and today has numerous websites devoted to it. It wasn’t frogs spawn, it wasn't in water, it was just sitting on the grass. It wasn't wet or dry (I didn't touch it), but it seemed moist and slightly rubbery, it had a solid form and was about the size and shape of a large potato. There was nothing moving in it and there wasn't any more of it other than this blob. Mysterious jelly from meteors, some sort of cosmic goo, Magpie vomit, the remains of partially digested frogs ? Who knows, but it's been around since the 14th century.

Outstanding and Outlying!

the awesome view from hampsfell

I'm officially fed up now. One day back at work and it's like I've never been away. The week in question was last week and we were in our beloved Lakes, staying in Ambleside. The weather was fantastic with just one day of mist and damp, but for early March it was a dream.

The dog, now a year old, was introduced to the fells gently and we tackled some of the Outlyers. For those of you who don't know, they are the 116 lower fells around the edges of Lakeland that Wainwright suggested people not able or inclined to tackle the high fells, enjoy for their shorter length, lower height and fabulous views and wow, he wasn't wrong.

We enjoyed Hampsfell, Grandsire, Nameless School Knott, Latterbarrow, Wool Crag, Beacon Fell, Reston Scar, Hugill Fell, Cunswick Scar and Scout Scar. We also scored through High Knott which, although we haven't climbed, the Wainwright Society will allow you to tick off as it's on private land and the owner will absolutely not allow anyone on it. The Society has had considerable discussions with the landowner, but to no avail, so they will accept your total of 115.

Anyway, they really are little gems. Dare I say it, but it's actually quite refreshing to have a shorter walk, a gentler gradient and an easier climb and yet still be back for coffee and cake or tea and cake depending on when you start. I think most of the actually walking probably took us no more than an hour, sometimes less, although the dog does like to mess around a lot and it takes us at least an hour longer to get anywhere! The views are just breathtaking.

Probably the favourites of the week were Hampsfell in Grange over Sands which has the most beautiful views over Cartmel and Morecambe Bay and a spectacular limestone pavement. Cunswick Scar is a dream of a walk with far reaching views over the Howgills and Pennines and right round the high fells to Coniston Old Man. Scout Scar (which you could literally toddle up in 10 minutes) has breathtaking views as well. Latterbarrow was tackled from Wray Castle with a lovely start meandering through the grounds then a fantastic, gentle walk up though woods and out onto the top where I was just stunned into silence at the panorama.

They really are such wonderful, smaller fells with the most astonishing views. Perfect for a gentle walk.

CARtmel from hampsfell

the misty boat house at wray castle

panoramic views from latterbarrow

windermere coming into view from the latterbarrow descent

the views from grandsire

the howgills from cunswick scar

sublime scout scar. just the place for contemplation!

Favourite Fell Days: Ard Crags and Knott Rigg

ard crag summit

Last March we decided to tackle a relatively unexplored area for us, the Newlands Valley. We'd done Catbells, Maiden Moor, High Spy, Dale Head and Hindscarth, so we'd essentially walked some of the ridges above the valley, but this time we would actually be right in it. The weather was perfect; clear, sunny but cool enough just for a fleece.

We parked at Little Town and would have gone further to the spaces at the head of Rigg Beck but our Land Rover wouldn't fit easily over Chapel Bridge, so we walked the mile or so to where we would have parked, at Birkrigg Quarry. It was a pleasant, flat walk by Rigg Beck through the little valley of the same name, with Causey Pike towering over us to the right and Ard Crags looking huge and slightly menacing from this viewpoint.

An obvious crossing point of the beck and faint path diagonally up through the bracken signalled the beginning of the climb up to the foot of Aikin Knott (sounds like something a chiropractor could fix) as the summit of Ard Crags is no longer visible from this point. There is one enormous grassy bank to overcome and, in the heat of the morning, it was a real slog. We hate walking up grassy banks and much prefer a rocky path - concentrating on where to put your feet takes your mind off what you're doing! 

Ard Crags looking menacing

from aikin knott looking back at the huge grassy bank - you can just see the couple following us, right of centre on the path

Once we reached the bottom of Aikin Knott, there was then a narrow, steep path to negotiate which would have been straightforward if it weren't for considering the dog who wasn't as agile as he had been, so we had a few tricky rocky patches to get past, but they were easily overcome and he managed well. We were glad of the breeze once on the ridge as we’d worked up a bit of a sweat, as we were of the views which were magnificent; Causey Pike, Eel Crag and Sail to on one side and across the Newlands Valley to Dale Head, Robinson and Hindscarth the other, with the ridge ahead to Knott Rigg; Skiddaw and Blencathra behind.

The ridge was flat and wide and the summit of Ard Crags was easily reached. We had lunch there, cooling off, enjoying the scenery and chatting to the one couple who had followed us all morning, which was lovely. Then it was a simple down and up to Knott Rigg further along the ridge, with its wonderful views of the Buttermere valley and the High Stile range.

Almost at the summit of Ard crags looking into the NEWLands valley

keskadale farm, our return route, from ard crags

the ridge from ard crags to knott rigg

Knott Rigg summit

After a bit of a rest, some photos, enjoying the weather and the views, we set off following a faint but obvious path down towards Keskadale Farm in the Newlands Valley. The going was good; springy turf and heather and it was dry underfoot, so we made quick progress. The dog, at 12 years old, flew down like he always did, and before long we were half way down. The other couple, still following us, were soon a way behind. I stop to take more photos and admire the views than Bro, so it takes me a while to catch up, but we were soon over the stile by the farm's rather smelly dog kennels and out onto the road, where it was an easy yomp back to the car.

Just as we were changing out of our boots and having a quick drink, the other couple turned up and found they had actually parked next to us!

Unbelievably stunning views in all directions, perfect weather and a lovely couple to chat to on the way round made this a really memorable and wonderful day.

on the way back down - ard crags summit top left

stunning views of Newlands

Walking in a winter wonderland

grasmere

We’ve now done a fair few winter walks, and I thought I’d summarise a few tips that we’ve picked up and learned along the way.

SKIDDaw from longside edge

1. Cold is cold. A strange thing to say I know, but I once spent a night in the Ice Hotel in Swedish Lapland, well inside the Arctic Circle, when it was -27. That temperature didn't actually feel any different to -2, but the wind chill is the thing that's brutal. If it's cold down in the valley, it'll be degrees colder on the tops, and if it's windy, more so.

2. Your body works much harder to keep you warm in the cold, so you tire more easily. Keep your core warm, take on plenty of fluids, have regular snacks and don't hang around too long to eat, drink or admire the view.

3. Wear windproof over-trousers. Sounds obvious? We walked up to Raise and on to Stybarrow Dodd last November and I was fine in my 'windstopper' trousers until it started snowing, with a freezing wind which hurled itself at us the minute we stepped onto Stybarrow's summit, until I couldn't feel my legs. Bro kindly let me wear his over trousers on the descent to warm up, and it really made a difference. I never walk without them in my pack now, even in summer.

4. If you take spikes, why not get them out and put them on? We did Clough Head one March in a whiteout and knee deep snow on the summit plateau, on our way to the Prison Band, when we seemed to find ourselves at the top of what, in summer, would have been a slope requiring a few pigeon steps and a little bit of a jog, but in winter was treacherously slippery. Bro went first, slipped and rolled slowly and quite gracefully then lay at the bottom waiting for me. I managed but only by going very gingerly. And yes, we did have our spikes in our packs....

5. Be prepared to make a huge amount of effort and end up in a whiteout with no view.

6. Have a contingency plan and be prepared to change your plans. Once, at Swirl Hause, we were going to carry on up to Swirl How but we were cold, a bit tired, it was a whiteout and the climb up was very icy and we frankly just didn't fancy it that day. Much better to enjoy it as another walk, feeling fresh and with a view.

7. Tell someone where you're going, leave a note or at least know Mountain Rescue's number (call 999 and ask for Police who will transfer you). 

8. Be prepared to absolutely love the crisp air, the magical scenery, crunching along in the snow and the prospect of a hot chocolate or a pint, a huge pile of food and a roaring fire at the end of your epic day.

yes, enjoying it. honest

Enjoying the views…

Four seasons in one week

We've just returned from a lovely trip of just under two weeks to the Lakes, staying on the outskirts of Grasmere. We have been in November for the past few years and love late autumn, early winter for colour and walking, especially if you're lucky enough to see the sun as well. I think we had all four seasons in the space of a week.

At the beginning, it was balmy but with a fresh breeze and no need for a jacket, just like late spring. A day later, it was ridiculously warm, with sun all day which had some strength like early summer. Autumn came mid week, with cooler temperatures and the need for a down jacket, then at the weekend it was suddenly full blown snowy winter with hat, gloves, scarves and central heating.

This trip was more relaxing than our usual hiking weeks as, with our other four visits this year, we are still unable to walk our young dog for more than half an hour until he's a year old at least. We still had some lovely shorter, flatter walks admiring the autumn colours, then had a wonderful surprise of a heavy snowfall one night that made everything look magical. With the sun, it was stunning and I haven't seen snow like that in the south since 2011.

We did manage to do a couple of the Outlying Fells (taking our total to a princely 7 out of 116!). The dog’s first Wainwright, Humphrey Head, was stunning on the day we went; clear and calm with that wonderful soft, autumnal light and a low sun. It was completely still on the summit and the views were beautiful and far reaching. The gentle, short ridge walk was perfect for the dog, although he didn't really know what to make of the trig point and barked at it suspiciously on the approach! 

We also climbed School Knott (Bro and I summited in tandem, one staying with the dog) which has one of the best views I think we've seen so far on the lower fells; a 360 degree panorama right round from Coniston Old Man to the Pennines. The snowy fells in the background lit by the sun, especially the Howgills, were just staggeringly beautiful and it's a huge reward for such little effort.

A lovely set of walks, and interesting and unusual to experience so many different seasons in such a short time!

views from humphrey head

looking inland from humphrey head

from tarn hows towards the LANgDALE pikes

storm clouds gather over the pikes

a sudden grasmere snowfall

an alpine grasmere

grasmere itself

very cold early morning in GRASmere

Kelly Hall Tarn

coniston old man from kelly hall tarn

beautiful mellow light

Hidden Gems

Thailand markets itself well, really well. Neighbouring Malaysia, not so much. I'm sure lots of us have heard of Bangkok, Phuket or Koh Samui, but how many of us know as much about Terengganu, The Cameron Highlands or Pangkor Laut? The same is true of Lakeland. The big beasts; The Scafells, Blencathra, Skiddaw and Helvellyn are all beautiful, well known, well visited, well liked and deservedly so. I'd like to put a word in for the quiet ones; some of the smaller, perhaps less well known and sometimes more remote fells that are just as beautiful and well worth a visit and a climb. I've chosen some favourites from each of the seven pictorial guides, just to give a fair representation of the whole of Lakeland.

Eastern Fells: Glenridding Dodd:

This little beauty sits above Glenridding Village at the end of the ridge coming down from Helvellyn and looks out over the western shore of Ullswater. Wonderful views for little effort and a lovely little pine forest on the top.

Glenridding Dodd

Far Eastern: Caudale Moor:

Also called Stony Cove Pike, Caudale Moor sits opposite Red Screes, like sentinels of the Kirkstone Pass. It's on the ridge that comes down from High Street and is an easy pull up from the Kirkstone Pass Inn (handy for refreshment on the way back). Beautiful, far reaching views down towards Patterdale and the Troutbeck Valley and very peaceful.

Caudale Moor

Central: Bleaberry Fell:

This lovely fell sits on the plateau between Thirlmere and Borrowdale and can be climbed from either side. The 360 panoramic views from the top are staggering. Incorporating Walla Crag makes for a great, and not too strenuous, day.

BLUEBERRY fell summit looking to blencathra

Southern: Black Crag:

This little gem is at the northern end of Tarn Howes and the straightforward walk round the tarn and up to summit rewards you with a huge panorama of Windermere, Langdale and Coniston. A great place for a picnic.

Waterhead from Black Crag

Northern: Carrock Fell:

This gorgeous fell is tucked away about 8 miles north east-ish of Keswick. Aside from the wonderful views to the Pennines, the Far Eastern fells and down the Caldew Valley, it's full of interest; volcanic rock, old mine workings and an ancient hill fort on the summit plateau. A fantastic walk if combined with High Pike as well.

Carrock Fell

North Western: Barf:

The little beauty that is Barf looks over Bassenthwaite Lake, opposite Dodd and Skiddaw and is noticeable from the A66 for the white Bishop's Rock on its flank. A gentle approach from the Whinlatter Visitor Centre through the forest is easy and beautiful, and the views down Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater are just staggering.

Barf’s views

Western: Blake Fell:

Blake is the highest  of the Loweswater Fells and can be climbed from the village of the same name or from Cogra Moss. We started at Fangs Brow Farm and took in Burnbank Fell, then went on to Gavel Fell and back to Fangs Brow past Loweswater itself for a great walk. Beautiful views north to south, from Binsey to Grike and down the Lorton Vale.

looking Towards Scotland from Blake fell

Have you become a hiking fanatic?!

So, how do you recognise when you've truly become a hiking fanatic?

1. You spend most of the day gazing longingly out of the window, sighing dramatically, wishing you were anywhere but stuck indoors.

2. You become a bit obsessed with the weather. Even when you're not on the fells. Or even going to the fells.

3. You think nothing of spending an obscene amount of money on a pair of walking trousers, yet gasp in horror at the price of a pair of black ones for work.

4. You use a rucksack as a handbag at every opportunity as it's just more practical you tell your horrified girlfriends.

5. You bore everyone around you about summits conquered, summits yet to conquer, summits you'd love to conquer, as well as energy bars, protein sources, running routes, boot merits, electrolytes.....

6. You think nothing of hauling your hair into a messy knot and tramping about joyfully make-up free and soaking wet, yet wouldn't dream of going to the shop without lipstick, mascara and freshly washed hair.

7. You suddenly become expert in anti-inflammatories, unctions, lotions embrocations, balms, liniments, ointments, unguents, soothers, salves....in the past you would have just had a bath.

8. You acquire an encyclopaedic knowledge of adductors, glutes, quadriceps, extensors, medial and lateral plantar nerves, sciatic nerves, posterior femoral cutaneous nerves, tendons, cartilage, ligaments, hamstrings...in the past, you would have just had a pint.

9. Maps become eternally fascinating; you can spend hours poring over them - in fact, you frame them and even dream of one day having a dedicated map room...

10. You gorge on walking magazines, books, guides, blogsites, vlogs, websites, Facebook groups, You Tube; anything to get your fill of all things mountain.

11. You enjoy your new found strength, stamina and fitness, showing off to friends as you scamper up stairs and stride out briskly, secretly quite pleased that you're known as 'the whirling dervish'. Consequently, you're asked to do all the lifting and shifting in the office.

12. You enjoy the simple things much more; a beautiful tree in autumn, a sunset, an amazing view or birdsong - after years of haring madly round the globe trying to see everything before it all gets too dangerous or too expensive. Or both.

13. Most of all, you love it because you just love it. As George Mallory said, 'because it's there'.

Favourite Fell Days: The Knott, Kidsty Pike, High Raise and Rampsgill Head

sublime views from kidsty pike

In September of last year, at the end of a great week's walking, we decided to mop up the summit of The Knott which we'd been meaning to do for a while plus, it's one of our favourite areas to walk. We parked in the car park at Hartsop and set off up towards the Hayeswater access road. The weather was superb; in fact very, very warm, but beautifully clear.

Climbing past Pasture Beck looking up to Threshthwaite Mouth and then across Hayeswater Gill, the path started to rise more steeply across Grey Crag's flank until we reached Hayeswater and began the climb up towards The Knott. The path we were on eventually joins the main path coming up from Patterdale; part of the Coast to Coast route and it's just such a beautiful area to walk in. We absolutely love it up there. The whole of the ridge from Brae Fell to Kidsty Pike and beyond is just stunning as it is in just about every direction you look.

Once on the Coast to Coast path, we got to just below Knott's summit and decided that that was probably enough for the dog who, although going strong, was nearly 13 and we didn't want to push him too far. Bro and I took it in turns to run up the last 100 feet or so to the summit. We met lots of Coast to Coasters who stopped for a chat, using it as an excuse for a breather I think!!

looking back to hartsop from the path up to hayeswater

hayeswater

Bro had been looking at the map while I was on the summit and decided that, as Rampsgill Head was so close, we might as well do that in tandem as well while we were up there. I sat with the dog and ate a sandwich, enjoying the peace and solitude whilst Bro jogged the easy couple of hundred feet or so to Rampsgill and back. Once back, breathless with summit fever, he'd said he’d also spotted Kidsty Pike and High Raise and, while we were discussing who would go first, the dog trotted off quite happily towards Kidsty Pike having got his second wind!

The path was an easy, flattish one to Kidsty Pike, so we were happy if he was. The views from that path and the summit of Kidsty Pike over Haweswater, High Street and Riggindale were utterly breathtaking and we spent quite some time there, just drinking it all in, enjoying the silence and trying to spot the Golden Eagle (we didn't).

The dog, after refuelling with biscuits, was by now full of energy again as we headed for the next summit of High Raise which was easily achieved with a straightforward path down then fairly gentle climb up, rewarding us with far reaching views north which were just beautiful. It was then back down again and another final, gentle climb to the Rampsgill Head ridge with its wonderful views down Ramps Gill Valley. It was beginning to get a little colder and cloudier here and, looking round, we seemed to be the only people still up there, so we got ready for the walk back.

Riggindale towards haweswater

the pointed peak of kidsty pike

High Street from Kidsty Pike

From Rampsgill, it was an easy couple of hundred feet back down to the col at The Knott, then we re-traced our steps back down towards Hayeswater, stopping every so often for the dog, water and photos.

each view seemed better than the last

The dog was amazing, given that this had been a long walk on a very warm day, but he was still trotting ahead of us when he reached the car at Hartsop. With some sadness however, for us, we decided that this would be his last high level walk and he was duly retired from the high hills. It had been a fabulous and memorable day for us, and a great walk for his last mountain outing.

Favourite Fell Days: Dow Crag and Brim Fell

We decided to tackle Dow Crag and Brim Fell last March. We'd been up to Goat's Water a few times before and had always looked up at the ridge in anticipation of a good, solid walk.

Parking on the rough ground, it's always lovely walking the Walna Scar Road and this day was no exception; that beautiful, bright, warm sun but fresh feel of early spring, with perfect clear air and views that go on for miles. We soon reached Cove Bridge and began the steeper zig zagging climb up to Walna Scar Pass, pausing for the obligatory photo in the stone shelter at the side of the path. Once at the top of the pass, the cloud came down and it began to get a little chillier, so we donned down jackets, hats and gloves and set off into the mist. I love walking in the mist - everything becomes quiet and a bit spooky and people loom out of the gloom, closer than you thought!

From there, it was a fairly gently pull up to the summit of Brown Pike and being in the mist, we were surprised to find ourselves there so quickly. In real Jurassic Park style, whisps of cloud swept over the crag, down and across towards the Old Man which was lovely and atmospheric. We stopped for a slug of water and an energy bar in the wind shelter, then set off along the ridge towards Buck Pike.

Along the ridge were the most magnificent views over Eskdale, with Harter Fell standing proud and alone like Mount Doom. At Buck Pike summit, we stopped for photos, even capturing ourselves as Broken Spectres which was a real treat!

BROKEN SPECTRE!

harter fell, aka mount doom

The huge bulk of Dow Crag loomed intimidatingly in front of us through the now thinning mist and cloud, but the weather was sunny and fresh - a beautiful late winter/early spring day. We edged round the East Gully, then on past the Great Gully which fascinated the dog who edged just a little too close for Bro's comfort, although I had a good look down.

The last climb to the summit of Dow resulted in fabulous 360 degree views, although the wind increased alarmingly, so we didn't stay too long. We then dropped down to Goat's Hause and had lunch in the sun, now out of the wind which was a relief.

The Old Man

After a enjoying a mini sunbathe still clad in down jackets, hats and gloves, we took the well worn path up as though going to the Old Man, although we branched off to the left, across the flank of Brim Fell, then scrambled easily and directly up, coming out almost opposite the summit cairn. It really was stunning up there on a huge wide plateau, with crystal clear views of Windermere and beyond, but the wind was turning colder, so we turned and headed back after a wonderful, exhilarating walk in beautiful weather; one of those mountain days you really remember.

Windermere from Brim Fell

On the way back to the Walna Scar road, coniston ahead

The ridge just walked

Fellosophy

Confucius was a wise man; a teacher and philosopher who gave us the principle of do as you would be done by. I have no real grasp of philosophy although I have on occasion pondered the 'why are we here' question, but other than that, I pretty much just go through life in happy philosophical ignorance. I thought I would take some of the wise man's teachings and see if could try and apply them to myself.

Confucius says: It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop.

In the early days of fell walking, I would huff and puff my way to to the top, usually getting cross in the process and constantly wondering 'how much further', 'what up there' or 'you must be joking'. I was once sent on an Outward Bound course from work and pretty much the best bit of advice I was given (which I still apply 26 years later) is, as soon as you think you can't do it, you won't. Your mind is powerful and I think most of climbing is having a positive mental attitude - it certainly worked for me. My desire to get to the top and see the view spurs me on.

Confucius says: Our greatest glory is not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall.

I'm surprised to say that in all the years we've now been walking more seriously, I've only fallen three times and none of those was serious - just thumping down on grass; once on Pike o'Blisco I slipped on ice and went down on my knees, but nothing really dramatic. It does teach you to watch your step though.

Confucius says: When anger rises, think of the consequences.

It's amazing the number of times we've heard people arguing on the fells and the funny thing is how far voices carry. It's a long way. We've actually looked round to see who it was behind us going hammer and tongs, only to spot the culprits across the valley on the opposite ridge! Stomping along in a temper can't be much fun either. I can honestly say we haven’t experienced either.

Confucius says: Success depends upon previous preparations and without such preparations there is sure to be failure.

Very true. In our very first fell outings, we were woefully unprepared and although nothing dramatic ever happened, it probably made the walks harder and less enjoyable that they should have been. Dehydration on Heron Pike, the wrong kit and clothing on our first Helvellyn attempt, following sheep paths, taking short cuts and ending up walking further and harder, but suffice to say lessons have been learnt and we are always well prepared in every way. We were once able to help a lady suffering from heat exhaustion and huge blisters about half way up the Ranger's Path on Snowdon because we had plenty of food, spare drink with electrolytes and a first aid kit.

Confucius says: Ability will never catch up with the demand for it.

I've lost count of the number of times I've looked longingly ahead and thought, it's not that far to the next summit, or we've completely under-estimated the distances between fells, or not taken account of huge valleys or ravines in between them. We've stood, occasionally for quite some time, looking up at summits after 8 or 9 miles wondering whether to carry on, but we do always do the sensible thing and turn back. Having a dog with you also makes you a little more realistic. Make sure you have enough energy for the return trip and any unforeseen detours you might have to make ( we had to do a 3 mile detour to avoid a bull in a field once, after a 9 mile walk....)

Confucius says: Real knowledge is to realise the extent of one's ignorance.

All those early mistakes we made have turned us into half way reasonable walkers and helped us, more importantly perhaps, learn what not to do. Packing the right kit, taking enough food, knowing your route and alternatives, knowing your limitations and knowing when to turn back if necessary ( we turned back half way between Whin Rigg and Illgill Head because the dog was pretty arthritic by then and we didn't want to push him too far when we had a long return journey). Most of all, you can relax and enjoy yourself which is what it's all about.

Confucius says: Everything has beauty but not everyone sees it.

We can honestly say we've enjoyed every walk and every fell we've done. Even Armboth Fell and Mungrisedale Common which Wainwright himself didn't rate very highly. They both had stunning views at the very least. Everything has something positive or beautiful about it; even on the dullest trudge you can spot beautiful wild flowers, interesting rocks or listen to birdsong. I always try, on the routine daily commute, to spot something interesting - just to enrich the day, even for a second.

Confucius says: Wherever you go, go with all your heart.

Can’t argue with that.

Spring Tulip

I spy High Spy

On a beautiful June day a few years ago, we decided to do a classic Lakeland walk; Catbells, Maiden Moor and High Spy. Bro had already somewhat hapazardly climbed Catbells before with Dad when they ended up off piste attempting a full blown scramble which rather defeats Wainwright's description of Catbells as 'a family fell - grandmothers and infants can climb the heights together'....

Despite staying in Keswick, we were a little late setting off and on reaching Lake Road car park, realised we hadn't got any change. With hindsight it would have been quicker to have gone back to the house and got some, but we decided to "pay by phone", a quick and easy way to pay it said on the sign. Twenty minutes and much cursing later with deed done, we realised we'd missed the launch from Derwent over to Hawse End and had half an hour to kill. By now we needed a cup of coffee and the nearest place was the now demolished Lakeside Tea Gardens. It was a slightly surreal experience listening to a tinny Liberace number on a self playing piano at 9.30am and Bro visiting the 'Ladies Powder Room', but at least the views were pretty. So far, so disorganised.

The launch ride was lovely across and around half of Derwentwater, then off we jumped and started up the well worn path with about a hundred others. It was nice to chat every so often as people stopped for a breather. We got to the summit without incident but we did have a bit of an audience at the last slightly scrambly bit before the summit as we pondered the best route up for the dog, listening with amusement to mutterings of 'there’s no way that dog'll get up there', but he found his way quickly and easily, with two people following his lead!!

the view from CATbells summit

Once at the top. we paused for a drink of water, then sat admiring the views and taking photos. The weather was warm and sunny and it was glorious up there. Descending slightly, it was an easy walk down to Hause Gate and up the other side to Maiden Moor, chatting with people en route. Once on the plateau, we wandered over to a low cairn and sat down to admire the beautiful views over to Skiddaw and Blencathra and beyond to Scotland, marvelling at how small Catbells now looked, just below us.

maiden moor back to catbells

Bro was checking his GPS to make sure we'd hit the summit, when we realised we were on Bull Crag, not Maiden Moor..... Maiden's summit is fairly indistinct and involved a little wandering around before we found it as it wasn’t marked with even a single stone. The views down into the Newlands Valley were just breathtaking so we had an energy bar sitting in the sun, soaking it all in.

the summit is definitely here….

beautiful NEWLands valley

‘Oh no!’ yelled Bro suddenly, causing me to slop water all down my front. 'We didn't check the times of the last launch back!'… It was late afternoon at that point as we dallied somewhat enjoying the views and we still had High Spy planned. 'Don't worry,' he said, ' it's only over there' pointing to a cairn that looked quite a way away and was about the size of a thimble. We wasted a good 5 minutes standing staring stupidly at the cairn then each other chanting 'can we get there and back in time?' 'Yes, we can.' 'But are you sure we can get there and back in time?' Over and over.

Deciding we could, we jogged most of the way and actually it didn't really take that long to get there. There were a number of others on the summit and the views forward and back along Borrowdale were staggering. Pleased with ourselves, we took the obligatory summit photos and congratulated ourselves on making it this far.

'OK, on to High Spy' said the couple next to us. We looked at each other in horror. Sure enough, there was the thimble sized cairn of High Spy about half a mile away. Cue the stupid looks again, but this time we really didn't think we'd have time, especially as we had an idea the launch back was around 5pm. It turned out we were on Blea Crag and although beautiful, we now had to get all the way back to the High Brandlehow landing stage. Again, we pretty much ran all the way back to Hause Gate and picked our way more carefully back down the steep, pitched path across the flank of Catbells towards Manesty Woods and ran along the shore to the landing stage where the launch was just approaching. Early.

Despite all that, it was a great walk which would have been perfect if we'd planned the day a little better with some simple research. Suffice to say lessons have been learnt…

PS: we took a whole day a couple of years later just doing High Spy in torrential rain on the lethally slippery path up to Rigghead Quarries in the mist with no views. That’ll teach us…

What do I not love about fell walking....?

slightly disappointing weather

In the interests of fairness, there has to be a balance, doesn't there? Fell walking isn't all rosy all the time and after my last post, I though it only fair to say what I'm not so keen on in the hills.

Waterproof Jackets. I just can't feel or get comfortable in a waterproof. I know they're practical, essential and sensible (and I've been very glad of mine at times), and I do wear one if I have to, but I have actually bought a hooded softshell as an alternative to see if it's better (it is, marginally but not in torrential rain). I can't bear the restriction, the sweaty wrists, feeling too hot (a bugbear in all manner of clothing and conditions actually), not being able to see or hear properly with the hood up or the irritating rustling.

Carrying a rucksack. I do, I hasten to add, but I really wish I didn't have to carry anything at all. I don't like the deeply unattractive sweaty back situation in hot weather or the additional weight of a couple of litres of water, or the bulk of it in winter with all the extras needed to anticipate any weather changes.

Rain. I know, it's a boring one, but I can cope with snow, cold, fog/mist (we actually quite like walking in fog and mist), wind, hot sun, dull and cloudy or even gentle rain, but torrential rain is just so miserable. We once did High Spy from Rosthwaite up towards Rigghead Quarries which was just about as awful as it could be - we were soaked through to our skin and my boots actually sloshed as I walked. It makes everything lethally slippery too.

Dehydration. I've had this three times (so far) and none was pleasant. In the early days of climbing the Wainwright’s on summit number five, we'd climbed Heron Pike without intending to go that far, so I ran out of water, having given half of the small bottle I had to the dog. It wasn't particularly warm and I didn't feel thirsty (I have since learned that these things are no indicators), and sitting in the pub at the end of the walk, I began to see what looked like a tiny cog wheel bouncing from left to right and back again in my right eye. I began to feel a bit odd and really cold. I had a small cola for the sugar, but we went straight back to our cottage where I had three pints of water, a pint of Ribena, a hot bath, a two hour sleep and felt better. The second time was at home, pushing myself to go too fast and too far on a bike ride. That time two pints of water, a hot bath and a chicken roast did the trick. Not pleasant. Well, the chicken was. The third time was after a busy day at work and I hadn't had a drink all day which was just plain stupid....

False Summits. Don't even go there. Or there. Or there. Or even there.

Thank heavens the monstrosity on my back has gone...

Not false summits, just lots of summits..

What do I love about fell walking?

So with all my new found experience and enthusiasm, what do I love about fell walking?

Fresh air.  Being in an office for most of the week is a little frustrating, although I am lucky that I work in a little village next to the River Thames, so I'm hardly suffering in a huge noisy city, but especially on lovely sunny days, I do yearn to be outdoors. My colleagues must be fed up of hearing me groan 'this is a day to be on the hills' and don't even get me started on the commute.....

the thames in the village where i work. but i’m usually indoors

Exercise. 'Hills not pills' is my new mantra. The Chinese say you should windmill your arms around if you have a headache but I really advocate getting out for a walk, ride or run to clear your head, especially if you're mentally tired, upset, worried or anxious about something. The warm glow from hard physical exercise is lovely.

not that we really need an excuse…

Seeing new places. Climbing the Wainwrights has really got us to some corners of the Lakes that we would never visited ordinarily, and these have turned out to be really beautiful and sometimes quite remote places which, most of the time, we had to ourselves. This in turn has set us looking for new areas to walk nearer to home and made us more adventurous over the years in our trips abroad.

where was this again?

Freedom. Just getting lost (not literally) in the fells; those long summer days of epic walks and great views, perhaps lazing in the sun, without phones ringing, emails pinging, bills plopping, alarms buzzing, TV’s blaring.......

sunbathing fully clad on dale head

A sense of achievement. I don't just mean head down ticking bagged peaks off a list (although that is fun too), but setting out with a plan and a goal and achieving it. I think it's good to have a personal challenge, however big or small, just for your own satisfaction. We'd like to do the Coast to Coast next for example; just something to aim for and just for ourselves.

so many choices

Meeting new people. I love sitting in a pub at the end of a day chatting to like minded people. We once had a lively and colourful conversation with a lady who was about half an hour behind for most of the day, about a bull in a field and the three mile detour it entailed after a 9 mile walk.....chatting about routes and peaks is great fun and we have taken advice, used it and passed it on, so thank you to all those we met. Meeting people on the hill is great too; a few times we have followed or been followed by one couple for an entire day, overtaking each other periodically and chatting which makes a good day even better.

YES, I MET THE LATE GREAT DOUG SCOTT!

Walking with Gertrude

SKIDDaw from longside edge

At the end of December, we lost our wonderful dog and were heartbroken. We decided to do something different in January, just to break the month up a little and take our minds off things, so we booked a long weekend in Keswick.

We had a meeting just outside Penrith on the Friday morning, so driving up on Thursday meant we could have a full day's walking on the Saturday and drive home on Sunday. Perfect, except for the weather...Storm Gertrude was brewing and dire predictions were being made about driving into the eye of a storm (mainly by Mum). The journey of four and a half hours up the M6 was in beautiful sun and we made it all the way to Shap before the rain started, but even then it was only patchy showers. The wind did buffet us on the exposed section over Shap Fell, but nothing too bad, although we did take it steady.

Friday was beautiful all day - lovely bright sun and not too cold, but the wind was still blustery, so we endured more buffeting on the M6 heading towards Penrith but it was much calmer on the way back to Keswick. Saturday was clear, sunny and calm and all the fell tops had a fresh dusting of snow which we love.

We decided to tackle Long Side, Carl Side and Ullock Pike as they were only a 10 minute drive from the hotel and a ridge walk in winter in a looming storm was something we probably wouldn't have tackled with an older dog. We parked at the Old Sawmill Tearooms and set off up through Dodd woods. It was lovely and quiet; no wind, rain, ice or snow and no real flood damage that we could see although one of the trails had been closed. As the gradient eased and we approached the 'Dodd Summit' sign, Gertrude hit us full in the face, but it was still dry and relatively warm.

The views were lovely as were the clouds racing over Derwentwater as we began the climb up to Carl Side. Once we reached the summit, Gertrude made her presence felt again in quite an aggressive way and it got more than a little nippy, so we stopped to don water/windproof jackets and trousers and warmer gloves; I say don which sounds very civilised and calm, but let's just say the air turned bluer than it was already. A slug of freezing water completed the preparations.

The views were beautiful and we were in full sun. Now properly clad, we were perfectly warm and debated for about two seconds whether to veer off up Skiddaw, but Gertrude was playing rough and we still had Longside Edge to do, so decided against it. Gertrude was rushing about at around 45 miles an hour, so not so strong you could lean against her - although we tried - but enough to make you stagger, which is not a good idea on an Edge, so there was a lot of bracing with the walking poles. It was actually quite good fun and we were sensible, digging the poles in when a strong gust hit side on.

It still wasn't really that cold and looking behind us, Derwentwater was shrouded in mist and gloom, so we felt we'd had the best of the weather. It was a fabulously exhilarating walk that blew the cobwebs away. Gertrude had behaved herself, despite being a little pushy at times!

crepuscular rays over keswick

ullock pike’s view towards scotland

longside edge

Change and Improvement

FLEETWITH pike’s stunning summit

It’s now been eight years since we started climbing the Wainwrights properly and, after walking in the Himalayas, Rockies, Andes, Alps as well as the Peak District, Yorkshire Dales, North York Moors; the Cotswolds, Chilterns, South Downs, Purbeck Hills, Dartmoor, a couple of summits of Snowdon and a good clutch of Wainwrights, we like to think were are now moderately experienced walkers; at the very least we are really beginning to see results in ourselves, both mentally and physically.

Firstly, our fitness levels have improved dramatically. We have both lost weight and toned up and are both a least a size smaller. We also cycle - both mountain and road bike - run regularly, and walk every day with the dog. We both walk much more quickly now, although I still can't keep up with Bro. His ability - honed after 12 years of being yanked down mountain sides on the end of a lead - to find his footing on slippery and rocky paths at speed is astounding, and we're constantly amazed he hasn't broken an ankle in the past few years.

We now wear proper walking clothing after those early days of just wearing whatever was to hand in the drawer. Fitted trousers, wicking tops, lightweight fleeces and soft shells in bright colours, along with down jackets and Gore-Tex waterproofs. Rucksacks were slimmed down and properly fitted with expert advice as were boots, and we have a drawerful of walking socks, gloves and hats.

We take as standard a couple of maps, compass, first aid kit, GPS with spare batteries, head torches and a hat and gloves even in summer. A waterproof is always at the bottom of the pack and we use walking poles which really help your knees on the descents. We have learnt about which foods to take - usually nuts, dried fruit, a boiled egg, energy bars and a bit of fruit. We don't often take sandwiches as we have a decent breakfast, but for a long day, we will take a wrap with chicken in it; even if it gets squashed it's still edible and not too dry. We also carry a water bladder each and use electrolyte tabs in them which has the added benefit of making the water taste better!

We both have a much more positive attitude too which has come organically. Sighs of 'what, up there?' and 'really, that far?' are now a thing of the past. We're always amazed when coming down (much harder I think) how steep the path can be and how we didn't really notice it on the way up. Our determination and confidence has also improved.

Most of all, we've been really enjoying ourselves. Fresh air, great views, good company, a good laugh, an achievement and a pint at the end. Long may it continue!

Welcome to the Website!

the Newlands valley from dale head

Welcome to the website! We, my brother and I and our Golden Retriever, are about three years into a quest to climb all the Wainwright fells from the south of England. We first came to the Lake District (after a couple of times with parents) in 2007, for somewhere different to walk the dog. 

We loved it and came back every year, but only managed to climb about one fell each visit, and I seem to remember we thought they were all a bit of an effort and we much preferred low level, flatter walks! 

Fast forward to 2012, when a climb up to Alcock Tarn was a bit of an achievement, and we fell into conversation with an older couple sitting by the side of the tarn. This resulted in us carrying on up to Heron Pike, at their suggestion. I’m not sure how keen we were, but it would have been rude to refuse, especially as they were watching our progress! 

Heron Pike changed everything however.

We didn’t realise at the time, but we were looking into the Fairfield Horseshoe. We saw how staggeringly beautiful the area was from up high and how it seemed to be a whole new Lake District from our lofty vantage point, and we were  totally hooked. From that moment on, we began climbing in earnest and with enthusiasm, coming up once, twice, even five times a year from then on.

This website is predominantly the story of our Wainwright journey, but also a way of sharing our life outdoors and our travels. We hope you enjoy reading it!

mellbreak across crummock water