A short Summer Lakes break

Faced with a few days off towards the beginning of July, we decided to head north for a short break. Our thinking was to try and ease the walking in our October and November visits by climbing Hesk Fell and Stainton Pike and, with our sensible heads on, avoid driving down the Duddon Valley and up onto the Birker Fell Road when the weather could potentially be a little less benign. We also wanted to re-visit Newton Fell North and Caermote (for the third time of trying), as these two would have been slightly more awkward to get to from where we were staying at the end of the year. 

We booked into a little bungalow between Waterhead and Ambleside for four nights, which proved to be warm, quiet and very comfortable. On our way to the accommodation, we parked in a layby just below Newton Fell North to re-climb it as we suspected we hadn't quite got to the top in 2017 and we were right; in fact, we hadn't been anywhere near it! It was a warm, muggy afternoon but the wildflowers were lovely, there were deer on the flanks and the heather was just coming into flower. The walk was very marshy and circuitous as we couldn't see a path for the shoulder high bracken, but the views once at the top were lovely.

Our next objectives were Hesk Fell and Stainton Pike. We hadn't tacked Hesk Fell onto The Pike when we climbed it in March last year as Bro had a problem with his ankle, and we hadn't gone on to Stainton Pike from The Knott in that same week as the weather was horrendous, so this would tidy things up nicely. We set out very early for the fairly long drive to Coniston, down the length of the Duddon Valley, then very sharply and steeply up onto the Birker Fell Road, parking at the end of a lane which crossed tiny Woodend Bridge. It was a gorgeous day with stunning views of the Scafells and Devoke Water around us. As we started up the huge, grassy, featureless bulk of Hesk Fell, the sun came out making it very warm indeed, but three quarters of an hour or so later, there was a lovely cooling breeze blowing across the wide, flat summit plateau and breathtaking views in all directions.

From there, we headed towards Stainton Pike, and it looked a fair distance away, but once we picked our way down Hesk's western flank, it was a fairly straightforward yomp across a lovely lonely valley and up the other side. Mist rolled in from the coast, but fortunately we were on the ridge just before it engulfed us, and we made our way to Stainton Pike in that strange muffled quiet you experience in thick mist. It was a very simple and pleasurable walk in an area which felt quite remote, but we were soon on the final pull up to the top. We found it was much cooler on the summit and, with the mist clearing every so often, provided wonderful views to Muncaster Castle and towards Wasdale. We also looked down on The Knott we'd climbed in horrendous weather the previous October, relieved that we hadn't attempted to go on to climb Stainton Pike back then as originally planned! After a bite to eat and some photos, we decided that, as we were only about a twenty minute walk from Yoadcastle, one of the Devoke Water fells, we would re-climb it as we wanted a proper summit shot. We also seemed to have been just slightly off to one side of the true summit when we climbed it in 2017, so we wanted to be sure. It was a very easy detour over gently undulating ground but with a fairly stiff little climb up to the summit knoll. We sat for a while, taking photos and admiring the vast landscape in front of us, then started down in a more or less in a dead straight line to the north of Hesk Fell, heading for a drystone wall we had walked beside when we set off. Hot chocolate sitting watching tiny chaffinches at the Crosby Snack Shed was very welcome before the drive back

That afternoon. we wandered into Ambleside and Brathay Park where a Lakeland Trails event was taking place. We sat and watched for a while, enjoying the atmosphere.

The following day we decided to climb Caermote and it would be our third attempt. Both previous attempts had resulted in us not feeling comfortable climbing without permission, especially as we knew for sure that it was on private land. This time we asked two farmers in a nearby field and they pointed out the farm which owned the land, so (after a fortifying cup of coffee!) we walked into the yard and knocked on the farmhouse door. The farmer couldn't have been friendlier or more welcoming and happily gave his permission, asking that we used a specific gate, and letting us there weren't any cows in the surrounding fields. All in all, it took no more than 15 minutes and had the most spectacular panoramic views, especially over to Scotland. A delightful little fell.

Our final stop just before we re-joined the motorway home, was stunning Sizergh Castle. It was raining slightly, but it didn't diminish our enjoyment of the beautiful gardens and grounds, and its fascinating history. All in all, it was a really productive, short visit and leaves us 12 Outlying Fells left to do. We have two more weeks booked in October and November, so fingers crossed for completion, bringing to an end our quest to climb all 330 mountains and fells of the Lake District!

Hike Healthy

Following on from my previous blog, this time I was pondering what it was I had to do in order for me to feel comfortable and happy out walking, and to enjoy my days out.

I think I've had a fairly active life and always much prefer being outdoors. As a child, I was encouraged to get outside. Television time was limited and we didn't have the internet or mobile phones, so we made our own entertainment. We had a large dog, I was pony mad and helped out at the stables every weekend and in the school holidays for years and I played a lot of sport at school. I discovered a love of walking in my late teens and this has continued up to the present day, and we also enjoy running, mountain biking and swimming.

Any form of hiking or climbing is hard work, there's no doubt about it, but with some effort, you can thoroughly enjoy your days as well. There's nothing better than achieving whatever goal you've set yourself that day, be it a mountain top, a multi day hike, a bike ride or just a bit of a longer dog walk. Try not to be put off by the weather, as you will need to get out in all conditions, in all seasons and on all types of different terrain. The following things have helped me over the years.

Building fitness - There’s no sugar coating this; it is essentially a lot of hard work and commitment and you do have to put the effort in. You don't want to go at it too hard if you're just starting out or you’ll probably end up being put off. For me though, regular and repeated exercise has been the key to maintaining and increasing my fitness levels. It was no good visiting the Lakes perhaps three or four times a year, doing nothing in between and then expecting to be able to comfortably hike 10 miles over 7 or 8 hours. I had to maintain a level of fitness in between visits and that has meant walking every day, which I enjoy and really notice if I don't do it. In fact, I actually feel guilty if I don't do it. We always set ourselves a target mileage to achieve and try to walk faster than usual. We try to mix our walking up a little so it's not all on the flat, but there aren't many decent hills where we live, and you do need to climb hills to prepare for the hills. If we only have limited time or a flat walk, we mix it up with bursts of jogging then faster walking. We also take our mountain bikes out and we swim, do pilates and gym work for strength and suppleness and we always take the stairs.

Building stamina - I think this is where I've seen my biggest improvement. Over the last two decades, going for longer, harder and higher walks has meant that today, Bro and I know we can walk continuously and steadily for 10 hours over mountainous terrain, quite comfortably. Walking speeds have also increased as my legs and back became stronger. The key is to increase the length of your walks, walk faster,  include some running and always include some uphill, even jogging uphill. Any regular movement or sport will help though.

Getting enough sleep - I find this both easier and harder as I've got older. I'm usually beginning to nod off at about 10pm and go to bed around then. I do find I wake up in the night, but I'm usually awake by about 6am and I think seven hours is about right for me. There are the occasional nights when my mind's buzzing and I lie awake until the small hours, but I know I'll sleep well the next night, so I try to be relaxed about it. I always sleep with the window wide open, even in winter and usually have the curtains open as well. 

Eating well - We don't eat processed foods, we always have plenty of fresh fish, fruit and veg, we limit tea or coffee - both decaf - to one cup a day and we eat lots of pulses, grains and beans. We don't have too much red meat, we try to reduce the amount of carbs we have and we try to eat seasonally. We're not perfect - we like the odd chocolate bar or biscuit, but everything in moderation. We always have a decent breakfast before a walk - granola with yoghurt and blueberries and a bagel or slice of brown toast, or porridge with honey and banana in the winter, and always a good meal after a big walk. We drink lots and lots of water throughout each and every day. I very rarely have alcohol, although Bro does occasionally have a pint of ale.

Preparing yourself - We keep toe nails short so they don't bang against the end of our boots. We look after our feet, treating anything like corns, calluses and dry skin immediately and keep feet clean, warm, dry and moisturised as much as we can. We moisturise faces and hands and use lots of sunscreen and lip balm. I don't wear lots of make up or jewellery on the hills, hair is tied back and underwear is comfortable. I would’t advise wearing new boots on a long walk as I did recently and suffered some discomfort in my knees on a couple of long descents. Make sure your kit is tried, tested and comfortable before you set off. Make sure you stretch and warm up properly before you set off, and warm down when you return. Try to maintain a good, positive attitude and try not to complain if it rains or you're finding it harder than you thought, or the day will probably be even more miserable. It will get better!

With some effort, perseverance and preparation, you should be able to enjoy your days out, comfortably and easily. 

Hike Happy

I was pondering the other day on what immediately comes to mind when I want to go for a walk. 

A leafy lane in summer with golden sunlight slanting through the trees? A cool, crisp winter's day striding the hills? Hunting for mushrooms in a darkening, damp woodland? The fresh scent of a bluebell wood in spring? A gentle stroll along the riverbank.? Yes, all of these and much more, but whatever my mind conjures up, it makes me feel instantly happy.

Walking has such a powerful association with the things I love, that I can almost smell the leaf mold or the wood smoke of a distant bonfire in an autumnal forest, I can feel the chill of an icy breeze on the hilltop, I can see the wildflowers in the verge, smell the heather, touch rough tree bark, hear the skylarks and I love it. More than that, I need it. 

Our lives are all so busy, so noisy and so frantic, that it's lovely, not to mention vital, to switch off, still the chatter and enjoy something simpler, gentler and calmer. A walk for me is always a chance to clear my head and clear my mind and it always makes me happy or happier. When all you have to think about is what is in front of you, in that moment, then you're not worrying about answering that email, sending a thousand texts, checking your social media feeds or who said what to whom. 

A walk can soothe. An argument, an upset, a niggle, a problem. You can think more clearly, rationally and calmly. I love an evening walk to clear an aching, stuffy head from being indoors all day looking at a screen, enjoying and delighting in nature; flowers, birds, trees, scenery, horses in a field, the weather, the sights, sounds and smells; whatever it is. All of it and everything is added to the mix and results in a burst of endorphins and a wave of happiness.

I always, without fail, feel better.

Happier.

I love a twilight walk when the world seems different and unfamiliar but exciting. I love an early walk, heading into the sunrise of a cool dawn, watching the colours of the sky change by the minute. I love a quick scoot round our local woods, or a long, hard hike in the hills. I love a Christmas walk when everyone’s cheery and you can hurry home and thaw out by the fire. I love walking in all seasons and all weathers. It all makes me happy.

It doesn't have to be a full day out in amazing scenery, it could be a local walk from home that you've done a hundred times before. It could include the pleasure of walking and talking with a friend; focussing on the conversation and really listening. It could be a stroll alone, giving you the chance to take notice of the small things without distraction, or work through a problem in peace and quiet. It could just be taking the dog out and the simple, infectious pleasure that that brings. All of it makes me happy.

Even the anticipation of a walk brings me joy. Looking forward to a trip to the Lakes and being out on the hills when we live a five hour drive away. A coastal walk with the tang of salty air and the freshness of the sea. Planning a walk, planning your summer, working out which route to take or exploring new paths.

Walking is so good for us in so many ways. For me physically, I sleep better if I've had daily exercise and wake up feeling more relaxed and refreshed and looking forward to the day. Mentally, it increases my positivity, relaxes me, helps reduce anything I might be a little worried or upset about and helps me to feel more energised. Above all, it makes me feel happy and content.

So how do I feel about wanting to go for a walk, going for a walk or thinking about a walk? Happy, that's how.

happiness

The Tick List

Ticks are a perennial problem and one that can have serious, long term consequences if not caught and dealt with early. 

Ticks are prevalent all year round, but especially so from April to July when the weather is warmer. They favour damp, wet conditions, long grass, bracken and wooded areas where they loiter, waiting to latch on to the nearest warm blooded passer by, which could just be you.

We all know they can pass Lyme Disease onto their hapless victims, and more information on what to do if you are infected can be found at www.nhs.uk.

So what can we do to prevent being bitten and enjoy our summer days outdoors?

Try to cover up 

We never walk in the hills in shorts, not necessarily because of ticks, mainly just that we feel more comfortable in a lightweight pair of trousers instead. However, wearing long trousers will help prevent the little blighters latching on. Similarly, we usually tuck our Tshirts in (not the most attractive look I'll admit, but we rarely meet anyone and if we do. we yank them out again!). A light, long sleeve top will help if it's not too hot.

But I want to wear shorts

If you do, then use repellent containing DEET and check your legs regularly, brushing any off before they take hold. Men, with their hairier legs, need to check especially carefully.

Stick to the paths

Where possible, walk on paths or shorter grass and try to avoid pushing through long grass or high bracken. Try and perch on a rock or wall rather than sitting on the ground, and be wary of lying in long grass.

What about camping?

Try and pick a sunny spot as ticks like damp conditions, and one that isn't in the woods, but on more open ground. Bring chairs rather than sit on the floor, spray your tent with repellent and thoroughly shake everything out before you pack it all away. Perhaps leave all your kit out in the sun when you get home, as this will dry and shrivel any unwanted guests. Some camp sites spray for ticks.

Check and double check

A tick, unlike a mosquito bite, doesn't hurt or itch and you probably won't know you've been bitten. Check your clothing and any exposed skin every so often as you walk and brush any off immediately, When you get back to your home or accommodation, shake your boots outside and check yourself thoroughly all over, and that will mean someone else checking you from behind. Check crevices, under arms, in the groin area, on the backs of legs and stomachs, but do check everywhere very thoroughly. They are usually fairly easy to spot, but may be harder in those more 'awkward' areas. 

What do you do if you find one embedded in you? 

Don't touch it, rub it or scratch it. The important thing it to try and get the little critter out whole; you don't want to leave the head in and you don't want to squash it as you remove it. Use a tick tweezer or a fine pointed pair. Get a good grip on the tick as close to the skin as possible and pull firmly, but carefully and preferably straight out, not at an angle. Once everything is out - and you can usually see the whole tick at the end of the tweezer - dispose of the tick carefully, wash your hands, wash the area with soap and water and leave it alone. Don't keep touching it. Not all ticks carry the disease and even if the tick contains the bacteria, it is still possible not to get infected..

But what do you do if it is infected?

Keep an eye on the area over the following 3-30 days. If you experience any flu like symptoms, reddening of the skin or changes in the feeling or appearance of your skin, see your doctor straight away. Early diagnosis is key. 

What about my pets?

Dogs are very susceptible to ticks, but cats can be as well, and they can all contract Lyme Disease like humans, so keep them out of long grass if you can, and check them thoroughly all over in the same way as you would yourself. You can get repellent impregnated collars and preventative treatments, but your vet will give you advice on what is best or recommended. If you do find a tick, use a tick tool and make sure, as with yourself, that you remove the whole tick. If you notice any changes in your pets' mood or behaviour, see your vet straight away.  

It's a shame these little pests can mar a summer's day outdoors, but with care and vigilance, we can still enjoy our time outside.

The Lakes in Spring

Our second visit of the year to the Lakes in May was in complete contrast to our week in March. This time, we were blessed with wonderful weather and it reminded us how lovely it is to walk in Tshirts when it's warm and relatively dry underfoot. This was to be our final visit to the north eastern Lakes, climbing the last of nine Shap Fells we had left to do. 

Our first, and longest, walk was the Wet Sleddale Horseshoe, onto which we also tacked Wasdale Pike and it was quite a long, physical day. The weather was overcast with some light drizzle at the beginning of the morning, but it was thankfully warm. Underfoot was very marshy and running wet in parts, but for the most part dry. Navigation wasn't a problem even though there weren't any discernible paths, but the terrain was hard going - uneven, rough grass, hidden rocks, vast swathes of heather and lots of undulation. However, we also had beautiful views down the length of Wet Sleddale and across to Swindale, but it felt very remote indeed and we didn't meet or see anyone else all day. Wet Sleddale is a pretty valley, and it was lovely to see it from a different angle. 

A visit to Temple Sowerby and Acorn Bank provided an opportunity to visit a new area, and we thoroughly enjoyed wandering round the beautiful gardens and orchards, before following the wonderfully named Crowdundle Beck to a small working mill, then back along a woodland path lined with the most prolific swathes of wild garlic we've ever seen. The sight and smell was incredible and ran from the mill all the way back to the main house. 

The following day found us out early to drive the thirty or so miles to Keswick to attend the Mountain Festival for a second time. The weather was perfect and it was wonderful to be back in amongst the scenery of the northern fells once again. We wandered down and round Derwentwater taking photos. then had a cup of coffee outside at the Lakeside Cafe, before spending time at the lively festival. Lunch was at the lovely Elm Cafe in George Fisher's which was Abrahams when we last ate there, but the changes were lovely and the food was delicious. Somewhat reluctantly, we left Keswick later that afternoon and headed back to Shap, checking into the Shap Wells Hotel for our second stay there, heading immediately up into their little woodland to watch the Red Squirrels which was a delight. The weather was now beautifully warm.

Todd Fell and Whiteside Pike were next on our list to tackle, and they were absolutely stunning. The sun was bright, it was warm and dry, there was a profusion of wildflowers and lambs, and the whole walk only took us around two hours,, so we were able to drink it all in. Bannisdale looked stunning, with vast sweeps of bluebells carpeting the fellside. A gentler day followed and we spent a lot of time in the woods back at the hotel, watching, photographing and filming the squirrels which was magical. We made the short drive to pretty Orton village to buy one or two food items that afternoon to take with us on our walk the next morning; the Crookdale Horseshoe. 

As the weather was forecast to be much warmer, we were on the fellside at 7am in the cool of a misty morning. Walking along the ridge from High House Bank to Robin Hood then on to Lord's Seat, was delightful; easy, only very slightly undulating, warm, clear, dry, on a path of sorts and with wonderful views in all directions. We made good time and enjoyed every minute, sitting for some time on each summit. From Lord’s Seat, we headed off piste towards Crookdale Beck, where we stopped for coffee and a bite to eat observed by a herd of curious sheep, before heading back up and over Whatshaw Common, meeting two fellow outlying fell walkers and enjoying an interesting half hour chat with them.

We headed home early the next morning as rain was forecast, but it had been a wonderful, enjoyable week. We were a little sad to have finished the Shap Fells; indeed all the eastern fells now, in this beautiful and remote corner of the National Park. Our next visit will be to the west coast, but I think often and with much affection about those gentle fells and the red squirrels in that special, magical little woodland.  

The Marvellous Map

There's something so satisfyingly reassuring about looking at a map. The look, the feel, the colours, the artwork. Endless possibilities, adventures, outings, exploration. The excitement of planning a route, a day in the hills or a long distance hike. Spreading it out on the table in the depths of winter beside an open fire when the rain is hammering at the window is a deeply pleasurable way to spend a cold, dark afternoon.

Throughout our entire time climbing the Wainwright fells of the Lake District, and our ongoing quest to complete all 116 Outlying fells, we have relied heavily on tried and tested kit and equipment. As mentioned in previous blogs, this vital kit has been honed over a decade and a half, and all of it is trusted implicitly to keep us comfortable and confident in the hills, in all seasons, all weathers and often in fairly remote areas.

One of our most trusted and most used items we always have with us, even on our day to day walks at home, is an invaluable Ordnance Survey map. We have been using these wonderful maps for decades and have a vibrant orange and pink row of them filling an entire shelf. We favour the 1:25 000 scale with the waterproof surface for their detail, but we also use the 1:50 000 scale for gentler days out and about closer to home. We also have the Outdoor Active app on a dedicated Land Rover android telephone which includes a built in GPS antenna, on which we have the OS maps for whichever region we're going to be walking in, and this really has been a game changer.

Many times on walks close to home, we've followed unknown tracks and paths, enabling us to walk further and longer, exploring new areas that we simply wouldn't have found otherwise. Many a time in the middle of a forest, we've found new paths which have been a delight to walk, and I'm sure many a wrong turn has been avoided on many occasions. My brother is a very experienced navigator and also uses the app to record all our walks so we can measure improvements in walking speeds, mileages, elevations and distances; useful for fitness training.  All our walks are stored on the Outdoor Active app, filed by region.

We've been able to successfully navigate our way over totally unfamiliar terrain in totally unfamiliar areas in thick mist and fog without a wrong turn; even managing to shave off distance on more than one occasion. During one 10 mile walk in a new and very remote area in a whiteout, not once did we feel unsure or worried, not once did we go wrong and not once did the OS maps let us down. It was both incredible and reassuring; just the walking companion you need, and can rely on.

We've plotted routes, planned cycle rides, and used them solely to navigate nine years of climbing all 214 Wainwright mountains. They were invaluable to check gradients and whether paths ran close to steep drops and edges, as we had strong dogs with us needing to be kept on leads. We've used them to explore new areas, areas we aren't or weren’t so familiar with, visit places of interest as part of the walks such as stone circles, we've framed them and personalised them. We have also been able to download maps offline so we can still use them in areas where a signal may be a little patchy or non existent.

A paper OS map and a compass are always in our pack, as are our fully charged phones and spare batteries for the GPS device. On more than one occasion we've been able to point people in the right direction by showing them our map, advising them on the right path to take, work out alternative routes if they were way off course, pointing out the fell they're aiming for, warn them of certain areas to avoid or those which might be trickier to cross. Needless to say, on most of these occasions, they weren’t carrying a map…

A map is such a wonderful, inspirational tool to get you out into the great outdoors; travelling, exploring and exercising. What a resource, and how lucky we are to have it.

Coping with adverse weather conditions

We’ve just returned from our first visit of the year to the Lake District. We climbed ten Outlying Fells in three walks, leaving us just 24 to do in order to finish all 116, which we hope to complete this year. Two of the walks were in overcast, fairly windy but dry weather, but the last walk was in torrential rain, high wind and poor visibility, although thankfully not too cold.

So why did you walk on that particular day I hear you ask, and it was certainly something we asked ourselves on more than one occasion! Rain was forecast for the remaining three days of our week and we had already put this walk off by a day, but there was no other option, given that this is what we’d planned for the week. Also, frankly, we didn’t really want to come all the way back up to the far north east of the Lake District again, given that we’ve booked into accommodation as close as possible to the remaining walks throughout this year.

So, how do you prepare for, and then cope with, long walks in adverse weather conditions; in particular heavy rain?

1. Thankfully, in our experience, days like the one we had are fairly few and far between, but are really are much more of a mental than a physical challenge. To look out of the window and see low lying cloud and wind whipping the rain in horizontal sheets does mean a fair amount of mental determination is needed before venturing out. If you have the right mindset and focus, accept it’s going to be a bit miserable, but relish the challenge, then that’s the first hurdle overcome.

2. Most importantly, you really do need the right clothing. If you’re fairly serious about your walking, you will need to invest in one or two key things to enable you to stay out all day. First, a good Gore-Tex waterproof jacket is essential and you may need to spend a bit more on it to ensure it’s both comfortable and practical. No jacket is going to keep you 100% dry, but if you are mostly dry and more importantly, warm, you can stay out for hours. A cagoule or thinner raincoat just won’t be robust enough. Secondly, you will need Gore-Tex waterproof overtrousers (mine weren’t nearly as expensive as jackets can be), but you will be so glad of their wind and rain prevention capabilities. I have a pair of Berghaus trousers which are comfortable to wear and work like a dream. Next is a thick pair of Gore-Tex gauntlet gloves. Mine have a soft fleece lining and, whilst they did get sodden, my hands were still warm and relatively dry at the end of six hours. Lastly, I would recommend a waterproof rucksack cover. They usually come in eye wateringly bright colours, but that’s what you want in the mist and fog, and they really do keep everything super dry.

3. Accept that your feet will get wet. We had never encountered so much surface water as that day, as well as slippery rocks, slimy mud, swollen becks, raging waterfalls and saturated grass. I can tolerate wet feet as long as they don’t get cold, and my boots do leak, so we took a small microfibre towel and spare socks, just in case our feet got really cold, which thankfully they didn’t. My boots took five days to dry out though…

4. Wear a hat under your hood. It keeps the hood snugly in place and your head warm and dry. Tuck longer hair up or tie it back to prevent it getting caught in zips and sticking to your face in the wind and rain.

5. Use walking poles. They were invaluable on this walk for stability and balance on slippery ground and for poking into streams and marshes to test the depths.

6. Make sure you know how to navigate. We were in a very remote area with not a soul around, in miles of grassland with lots of rocky tops, in thick mist. When you’re turning this way and that, trying to find a summit in an expanse of grassy moorland, it’s easy to become disorientated, especially when there aren’t as many recognisable features with which to pinpoint your location. Make sure you have waterproof covers for GPS devices and maps, spare batteries and ensure phones are fully charged and in protective cases.

7. Take food you can snack on quickly. It isn’t always easy or pleasant to try and sit in the pouring rain when there isn’t much shelter, and you will find you get cold very quickly when you stop moving. Whatever your food of choice, make sure it doesn’t take you long to get it out of your pack and eat. You could keep something in a pocket, but I don’t tend to as I don’t really want a soggy mess to eat.

8. Take a sit mat with you. It will prevent you having a cold backside at the very least, whilst giving your feet and back a rest, if only for five or ten minutes.

9. Carry a water bladder. It’s not overly appealing drinking cold water in the rain, but keeping hydrated is important and it saves having to stop and rummage in your pack for a water bottle whilst everything inside gets soaked, and you get cold.

10. Watch where you put your feet. We both slipped, mainly on mud, and we were watching our foot placement, but be more vigilant when everything’s sodden. Rocks become especially lethal.

11. Keep positive. Try to block out the discomfort and and enjoy what you can see around you, even if it’s just fleeting glimpses through the cloud. We still had beautiful, misty valley views every so often, some gorgeous black fell ponies and stunning waterfalls to admire. Thinking about a hot bath got me through about two and a half miles of valley walking whilst slipping and sliding around in the mud.

12. Finally, try to see the funny side of your situation rather than bemoaning it. We laughed when one or other of us skidded or tripped (after we made sure we weren’t hurt!) and there were lots of times when we looked at each other, laughed and asked ourselves what on earth we were doing, but it really helped. When you get back, take off those wet clothes, soak in the bath, sit by the fire and dry off and you’ll find that, strangely, these are the types of walks that stay in the memory for longer!

What to...? Do after your walk

This is the last post in the ‘What to’ series, and once you’ve finished your long day in the hills, that’s it right? Pub, pint and home? Well, yes and no. There are one or two things to bear in mind after a hard day’s exercise.

Stretch and Massage : Even if you’re fit, you can still feel stiff and sore and if like us, you’re not in the first flush of youth, there may well be the odd ache, pain or twinge to deal with. My lower back is always a bit stiff after a long day and a good stretch back at the car is lovely. Taking the weight of the rucksack off and then the weight off your feet feels great. We warm down by stretching arms above heads, touching toes, rolling shoulders, bending and then simply sitting with bare feet. Taking your boots off (and wet socks) is also lovely and massaging the blood back into your feet feels wonderful, as it does with your shoulders. We usually sit and do all this for about half an hour before anything else, although we do a sitting down, simplified version of this in the car or back at our accommodation if it’s freezing or raining. We usually take a massage roller with us to really iron out any knots.

Food & Drink : You will have used up a lot of calories on a full, physical day, so make sure you have a decent meal. If, like us, you don’t tend to feel that hungry during the day and only eat relatively small amounts, this is important and many a time I think I haven’t felt like a meal, then when it arrives, I’ve realised I was hungry after all. On the odd occasion though, I have been ravenous for something to eat! Similarly, rehydration is vitally important. I’ve mentioned having dehydration before, years ago, when a pint of water and a pint of Ribena did the trick, along with a hot meal and a couple of hours sleep. In high summer, you will probably be slightly dehydrated, so something other than water is better, as you don’t want to flush any more salts out of your system. We’ve had squash or lemonade which has helped, as has a salty snack and a light meal. I tend to get a slightly upset stomach when I get a little dehydrated, so rice and plain grilled chicken is what I go for and we always avoid tea, coffee and alcohol as well.

Kit : There’s a tendency to get back to your home/hotel/self catering cottage/apartment and just dump all your muddy, wet gear in a pile and leave there it until the next morning. This stuff is expensive and a little bit of TLC ensures firstly that it lasts, but also that it’s ready for your next walk. We always change shoes and socks in the car, so wet socks, hats and gloves go on radiators, we empty and air wet rucksacks, wipe mud off waterproof trousers and trekking poles, stuff boots with newspaper (well I do as mine leak), hang up waterproof jackets and any other wet bits and pieces. Our dry bags are emptied and wiped out, rubbish is thrown away and most everything else laid out on a table overnight to dry and/or air. In hotel rooms, it’s a little more difficult, but we hang things over the bath or shower and then lay wet clothes on the floor. It all looks a bit of a mess, but it’s effective and you don’t want to make the room too damp and steamy by having everything on radiators. We always take two pairs of boots with us and so have a dry pair ready for the next walk.

Baths & Showers : What can be better to ease sore feet and aching muscles than a long soak in boiling foamy water?! Many a walk in the cold and wet has been motivated by this thought. Showers are just as good in the summer for cooling down and freshening up. Equally as good in the heat of high summer is full immersion in a stream or small river, fully clad, to cool off, as is sluicing head, neck and arms in crystal clear, cold water throughout the day.

Rest : I love that warm, fuzzy feeling you get from physical exercise; so much better than that headachy mental tiredness at the end of a working day. Bizarrely, we find that a lot of exercise stimulates us to the extent we’re not always that tired at the end of the day, but there have been occasions in the past where we’ve fallen asleep in front of the TV. Get plenty of rest, sleep with a window open, relax and let your body recuperate and repair.

Plan the next walk : A decade ago, we would go away for two weeks and walk and climb every day. We now prefer to walk every other day (although our walking days are invariably still quite long with a lot of climbing). We have usually planned our week before we go, so we know roughly what we want to do or achieve, and then our ‘rest’ days are taken at a more leisurely pace which we quite enjoy. In November, after a 9 mile walk and 4 mountains, the rain was utterly torrential the next day and we spent it in our accommodation, reading, planning and relaxing which was both very unusual for us (we’re not good at sitting around) and quite enjoyable for a change.

Whatever you do, take care of yourselves and your kit, ready for the next outing!

What to...? Do with your kit

In the penultimate blog of this series, I’m going to focus on looking after your walking kit.

Your things are hard earned, expensive, researched, valued and essential, so it pays to look after them when you’re not walking.

Boots : We have quite a few pairs of boots between us and storing them is a little bit of a problem as we don’t want them taking over every available space. Bro has size 12 feet, so his boots are massive and take up a lot of room. I have two pairs of boots I use for what I call my proper walks. At home, I have a lighter, cheaper pair that I abuse by leaving them covered in mud, which I know I shouldn’t, but we walk every day and it’s an occupational hazard in winter. With my ‘proper’ boots, when we come back from the Lakes or Peaks, I always rinse them out with a little soap and warm water and leave them to dry in the garden, then spray them with a deodoriser. I brush all the mud off, check the laces and make sure they’re dry before storing them in a cupboard.

Trekking Poles : Again, when we get home from time away, we wipe our poles down, clean any mud off and store them in a cupboard. We don’t tend to use them on everyday walks, but both have a lighter weight, folding pair for shorter trips when we want to save weight.

Down Jackets & Waterproofs : We have in the past re-proofed our jackets and I have washed down jackets in a special detergent. After wiping them down, drying and airing them thoroughly, they’re stored on hangers in cupboards. Over trousers are scrubbed to get mud off and hung outside to dry, then stored flat in a drawer.

Rucksacks : We do abuse our packs - hurling them down, dumping them in the mud, yanking them open and stuffing wet things in, but we do empty them out, wash them inside, scrub any mud off, make sure they’re dry, check all the straps and store them flat.

Water Bottles, Bladders & Flasks : Bladders are a real pain to clean and we always leave them until last. You can get specific cleaning kits, but we wash ours out with hot water, soak the tubes and mouthpieces in hotter water, dry them with a cloth then store them flat. We check the mouthpieces which we have replaced them a couple of times, as either grime or mould gets embedded in the ridges and grooves. We also recently replaced the bladders themselves as they start to look a bit manky after a while, and ours get stained pink by our berry flavoured electrolyte tablets. Water bottles and flasks are washed in hot water and stored standing up.

Everything else : We have three plastic storage boxes; one larger for those items we don’t use that often, like spikes, a Jetboil, bits of cooking equipment and so on. One smaller box is for the things we use the most and don’t want to rummage in the big box for, and the other smaller box is for our dry bags and bladders to lie flat in. These are stored in a cupboard along with our trekking poles, spare boots, crampons and wetsuits. It all only takes up about one and a half small shelves.

What to...? Consider as a female walking alone

I suspect most women are generally hyper aware of their surroundings when walking alone, which is a sad fact of the world we live in, but it can also be about building confidence and positivity and feelings of accomplishment and freedom. 

When I was about 16, we had a talk at school from a police officer. It was all about staying safe when you were on your own. Some of the things he mentioned stuck with me and I still practice decades later, such as always having your key ready in your hand as you approach your car, always parking under or near a light, walking confidently, keeping to the middle of the pavement or crossing the road if there's someone behind you. My mum also told me to be vigilant, not to go down dark lanes or into parks and woods as it gets dark, not to walk home from town after a night out or get into a taxi alone. All of this is good, sensible advice to try and keep us safe and well in more urban environments, but what about walking in the hills as a lone female?

Start small

If you haven't done it before, start with a shorter walk in an area you know there’ll be more people and perhaps go at a weekend for the same reason. I've only done it a few times and it is a little disconcerting to begin with especially (for me) walking through woods. I chose more popular areas and went in the middle of summer. When I relaxed, I found I really enjoyed it. 

Tell someone...

It's vital to let someone know exactly where you're going, your planned route and a rough estimate of how long you think it might take. Make sure your friends and family know your mobile number and perhaps the registration of your car if you're driving. You could give this information to a hotel receptionist or leave a note in your car or in your self catering apartment. If you do leave a note in your car, make sure it isn't too obvious and perhaps also include a brief description of what you’re wearing, or the colour of your jacket at the very least. The Wasdale Head Inn for example, has a book by the door where you list which mountains you'll be tackling that day along with the time you leave, then you sign back in on your return.

...But don't tell everyone

Don't broadcast when and where you're going on social media or in the pub before you do the walk. Post your accomplishment and lovely photos after the event! Similarly, don’t be too specific about your route to others you meet along the way.

Be prepared 

As it's just you, you need to be super prepared for the day. You need enough food and drink, a proper first aid kit with survival blanket or emergency shelter, the right clothing for the conditions and possible changes in those conditions, a head torch and sensible and comfortable footwear. Make sure you have a fully charged phone, a map and compass and know your route and alternatives if you change your plans. You might consider a GPS tracking device if you plan to do a lot of mountain or fell walking in more remote areas. Plan your day according to the time of year, know your limitations and don't try to be too ambitious if you're just starting out. Check public transport timetables and the weather forecast.

Calling for help

If you do feel unwell or have an accident, know how to call for help. Dial 999, ask for the Police then ask them to put you through to Mountain Rescue. You will have to give a location and grid reference. If you have a whistle - and some packs come with them, but it’s worth buying one if they don’t as they’re pretty inexpensive - the distress call is six sharp blasts, followed by a minute of silence, then six blasts and so on.

Wear bright colours

There was a terrible tragedy a few years ago when three men were caught in an avalanche in Scotland, but the rescue helicopter couldn't spot them as they were all wearing grey or black. Walking clothing comes in very bright colours and orange is particularly good in winter. If you don't have a brightly coloured jacket, think about a waterproof cover for your rucksack, as they come in the brightest and most luminous shades of orange, yellow and green and are relatively inexpensive.

On the hill

One of the things that makes me nervous wherever I am, is someone walking really closely behind me and that feeling of having to walk faster and faster. If someone is behind you and you feel uncomfortable, stop and pretend to tie a bootlace, get something out of your pack, take a photo or just look at the view until they overtake you. The chances are you'll simply receive a good morning as they pass. If however you meet someone and do feel uneasy, don’t admit you’re alone; you can always say you’re in front of or behind a group or your partner/friend.

Be Aware

It's not all about other people, though. You need to be much more aware of your surroundings when on your own. Uneven ground, steep drops, narrow edges, loose rocks, wet grass, snow and ice and slippery slate paths can all trip the unwary. Try not to walk with headphones plugged in, hands in your pockets or look at a phone screen or map as you're walking. Be sure of your route and be aware of your foot placement. 

Trust your instincts

They're yours and you're not going to mislead yourself. Your gut feeling is a powerful tool in your arsenal and shouldn't be ignored. If something - or someone - doesn't feel right or makes you feel uncomfortable, trust your intuition and act accordingly. Even if you turn back, the hills will be there another day. I once visited Scotland alone and something told me not to go up a hill to a ruined castle. It was a very strong, immediate feeling, one I’ve only had on perhaps two other occasions in my life, and it was like no other feeling I’ve had.

Enjoy it

The beauty of it all is that you only have yourself to please and you're presumably where you want to be, doing what you want to do, so don't let feeling nervous spoil it. People I’ve met on the hill are generally lovely and very friendly. You can go at your own pace, stop as many times as you want. go as fast as you want, deviate to look at something interesting, indulge that interest in pretty rocks without feeling you're holding someone else back, lie in the grass, take endless photos, whatever...it doesn't matter. It's just you, revelling in it all.

What to...? Wear in Winter

Continuing the next in the series of ‘What to’, I am often asked what I wear in the winter on a long mountain day to keep warm and dry.

Alfred Wainwright once said that ‘there’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing’, which is very true.

In our early days of walking, we wore very unsuitable clothing, mainly because we didn’t know any better, we probably didn’t really care, we definitely didn’t give it any thought and we were possibly indifferent enough to think we would be fine. It’s only when you freeze in thin cotton trousers, get soaked in a meagre cagoule, endure agonising shoulder pain from a hideously oversized rucksack or are crippled by cheap second hand boots that you begin to cast around in desperation for something, ANYTHING, that will make you more comfortable.

This is by no means a speedy process. It has taken us about ten years to hone our kit and clothing. Only last year Bro finally found a pair of boots that don’t aggravate his sciatica and achilles after years of intermittent flare ups, much to his delight. It will, and does, involve trial and error, money, time, a bit of effort and some research, but it is so worth it. Walking clothing is expensive, but it’s designed to last and the fabrics are specifically and technically designed for their purpose.

So, here’s what I choose:

Hats : I love a bobble hat and have a few in a range of colours. Invaluable and worn pretty much on all our winter walks, they are also lovely and cosy under a hood in the rain. I favour hand knitted woollen hats, but anything warm will do.

Scarves : I don’t tend to wear a scarf as most of my tops have a zip which does up just under my chin, as does a down or waterproof jacket, but I have occasionally worn a Buff and I do have a wool scarf which I’ve worn when it snows on walks from home.

Baselayers/Fleeces/Jackets : This depends on what the day’s weather is going to be. My favourite, go-to combination would be a long sleeve zip neck merino wool baselayer with a down jacket. I find it’s enough to keep me warm even on a cold day without being bulky. If it’s going to be cold and wet, I’ll go for a wicking Tshirt with a thin fleece under a waterproof jacket (plus a down jacket if it’s freezing). If it’s cold and windy, I’ll wear a Tshirt under my merino wool baselayer with a down jacket, but I’ve never felt the need to wear Tshirt, baselayer, fleece and down jacket as Bro does. My waterproof jacket is really windproof as well, and is also very comfortable to be in all day.

Gloves : I have very thin hands and fingers, in which I have a touch of rheumatism, so I’m always conscious that I need to keep my hands warm. I have a few pairs of gloves in various thicknesses from thin summer weight to full on Gore-Tex gauntlets and take whichever is appropriate. Mittens are a good idea when it’s cold as you can make a fist inside the glove to keep fingertips warm. You can’t beat a Gore-Tex gauntlet when it’s pouring and freezing though.

Trousers : I have a lovely pair of fleece lined trousers I use when it’s really cold, otherwise I wear standard walking trousers and put on waterproof over trousers if it’s wet or windy. I got a thin pair of long johns for Christmas which I shall be trying under my trousers.

Boots & Socks : I swear by Bridgedale’s winter weight trekking socks. I don’t ever wear two pairs of socks as I find one thick pair is sufficiently warm for me. Having said that, my trusty Salomon boots are about a decade old now and are beginning to split, so I did get soaking wet feet last November and my toes froze in the cold wind. A change of socks would have been sensible (I left them in the car), but walking briskly warmed them up. I think I’ll have to break in a new pair of boots this winter though…

If you choose your clothing wisely, you should be able to enjoy your days out, whatever the weather throws at you.

What to...? Eat

The next instalment in my mini series is focusing on what to take with you to eat on a long walk in the mountains. This is a very subjective topic, but here are a few tips we’ve learned the hard way over the decades.

Sandwiches : We always used to take sandwiches with us, but as we’ve got older, we try to reduce the amount of bread we eat. It would always be brown bread and we used to usually have fillings like ham or ham and cheese or something fairly bland, but a long, possibly hot morning with them crushed at the bottom of our pack in either tin foil, cling film or a plastic bag made for either a really dry or horribly sweaty, unappetising and utterly disappointing lunch.We neither looked forward to eating them, or enjoyed them while we were. On a cold day, it was all we could do to force them down. Avoid tomatoes as they turn the whole thing into a wet mess, and egg which smells evil on a hot day.

Wraps : Moving on from sandwiches, I thought wraps would be a better idea as they don’t go dry like bread, and I thought a stronger tasting filling would be more appealing. That worked for a while, but they were messy to eat and the filling kept falling out. We found the tortillas themselves tasteless and hard to swallow, especially on a cold day. Sweet chilli chicken was our choice of filling, but after I mixed that with a hideous selection of other foods, I felt very nauseous coming down from Red Pike and had to sit down for half an hour to let the feeling pass.

Sausage Rolls : We once bought home made sausage rolls from a little bakery to take on a long walk, which looked lovely in the shop. Only fairly small but thick, they were still warm, stuffed full of meat and very juicy looking. Three hours later, in the cool chill of a March morning, they had solidified somewhat; the pastry was incredibly dry and flaked all over us and the by now very dense, cold sausage meat seemed to lodge in our throats as we struggled to force it down. Not our finest meal and never repeated.

Hot Food : As mentioned in previous blogs, we’re not fans of Thermos tea, coffee or soup but appreciate it’s nice to have something warming on a cold day. We once tried noodles in a flask, only to have them congeal into one huge, greasy lump that we couldn’t even shake with force out of the flask…In an effort to reduce weight, we don’t carry a Jetboil or burner, but we have either brewed hot drinks (which we do often) or rehydrated meals from the back of the car (less often), but the thought of a pub is much more appealing!

Sweet Treats : In the early days, we always took a chocolate bar and a bag of crisps as well as things like Jelly Babies to snack on, but over the years, we’ve replaced these with healthier options, trying to pick things with a little more protein or energy giving properties, whilst cutting down on sugary snacks. We find a small square of Kendal Mint Cake is a really good quick fix energy boost if we feel we’re tiring, and we do very occasionally take a small Wispa, but we much prefer the savoury snacks like dried fruit - we take mango and apricots - nuts or Graze. Don’t forget you’re carrying chocolate on a hot day, or you’ll end up with what looks like a terrible accident in the bottom of your pack.

Solutions : Having discarded wraps and chilli flavoured fillings, we thought about what it was we would look forward to eating. We decided (as we don’t really get that hungry when we’re walking) that small, easy to eat things would be better for us, so we take a boiled egg (sometimes two), some chicken breast chunks, nuts, dried fruit, an apple or banana, perhaps some Soreen and occasionally a small chocolate biscuit in a wrapper, like a Penguin or a Club. We can then eat little and often, it’s tasty, we look forward to it and we can eat it standing up if necessary. There’s very little mess, nothing is dry or squashed and it doesn’t make us feel queasy.

Everyone has their own favourites; be that a pork pie, scotch egg, pasty or a bacon butty, but the main thing is to take enough to sustain you throughout a long, physical day.

Bon Apetit!

YES!

No!

What to…..? Pack

I’m starting a small mini series of blogs entitled What to…? This will be based on a number of questions we’ve been asked over the years on, among other things, what to eat, what to wear and what to take on a long day in the fells. This first one will be what to pack.

We're occasionally asked what we take with us for a long day in the fells or more specifically, how do we know what to take?

What you take is of course entirely subjective, but it's going to be a combination of tried and tested things that you can fully rely on when you need them. These are honed after those early years of taking practically nothing, to wishing you'd taken things you'd left behind, to those things you hope you won't ever need, but which you carry anyway. I would say it's wishing you had something with you that probably crystallises that list of essential items.

I carry an Osprey Talon pack which I've had for years and love. I'll admit that in winter, it is a little difficult fitting everything in, but I really don't want a bigger pack that I’ll inevitably put more things in. I've got used the weight and size of it fully loaded, to the extent I don't realise I'm carrying it. The contents are slightly different for summer and winter but year round, between us as standard, we carry a paper map and compass, a GPS device, spare batteries, cameras, a first aid kit with survival blanket and two trekking poles each.

So, this is what we take and what works well for us. 

SUMMER WALKING

First Aid Kit : I carry a full but compact first aid kit which includes scissors, a small Leatherman tool, duct tape, a spare bootlace, an emergency survival blanket, various bandages and plasters, antiseptic cream and pain relief pills. In a waterproof zip case, it lives at the bottom of my pack year round. In an inner zip pocket at the top of my pack, I have a small waterproof bag with Paracetamol, Ibuprofen, indigestion tables and a lip balm, for easy access.

Food : I’ll go into more detail of which food we take in the next blog, but in a green dry bag (always green so we can go straight to it) we carry more than enough snacky type food for the length of day. If a longer day is planned, we'll take a little more of each thing. 

Drink : We both carry a 2 litre Osprey bladder and use berry flavoured electrolyte tablets which dissolve in the water and give it a decent flavour. Bro may take a full 2 litres, whereas I tend to take about a litre and a half. Water is heavy, but you get used to it and it does get lighter through the day! On a shorter walk, we'll take a 1 litre bladder instead.

Clothing : We always take a light waterproof jacket, rolled up in the bottom of the pack. We don't ever walk in shorts, just lighter weight trousers, which suits us. If we're walking in Tshirts, we'll have a lightweight, long sleeve fleece with us. If the weather looks settled, this will usually suffice, but if the mountain forecast suggests it might be cooler higher up, we will take a slightly thicker fleece and a thin pair of gloves as well. We always take and wear a sunhat; Bro either wears a baseball cap which he can turn to protect his neck, or a brimmed hat, and I also have a brimmed hat. Clothing lives in an orange dry bag.

Other Bits : We always have a tube of Factor 50 sunscreen with us, as well as lip balm with sunscreen if it's really warm, and always sunglasses. Another dry bag (mustard colour this time) contains car keys and waterproof wallets and phones if it’s wet. Bro takes an SLR camera, I have a small Smidge spray and in high summer we've taken head nets which we've worn when we stop for lunch.

in the height of summer

WINTER WALKING

Waterproofs : We always take Gore-Tex waterproof over trousers not only for wet weather, but for windy conditions when they are a godsend. We have good, comfortable Gore-Tex waterproof jackets, both of which we've had for years and  know we can rely on to keep us 95% dry (7 or 8 hours of torrential rain will test even the best jackets!)

Clothing : Given that we wear Tshirts, merino baselayers and fleeces or down jackets under our waterproofs, we don't usually carry additional layers, but we always wear a wool hat and warm gloves. We have down filled gloves and Gore-Tex gauntlets which are amazing and worth the money they cost. We favour winter weight trekking socks which are perfect, but your feet can and do get wet, which is just par for the course. We have on the odd occasion taken a spare pair of socks, but more often that not we just change them back at the car. Sunglasses are taken if it looks as though the sun might be out and we might take a Buff if it’s really cold.

Food : This isn't usually any different to our summer food. Since the early, awful days of forcing down soggy, tasteless, squashed sandwiches in torrential rain or freezing wind, we prefer food we look forward to eating and can do quickly and easily and usually standing up if it's wet or cold. Soreen malt or banana loaf is great for energy, moistness and not mattering if it gets squashed, and we always have a bar of Kendal Mint Cake with us. On a shorter walk years ago, we did take a Jetboil and heated up a couple of dehydrated meals before we got back to the car, but it all felt like a bit too much extra weight to carry, so we haven't done it since. If you're going to take a chocolate bar, don't take anything containing toffee as it'll set like concrete and probably break your teeth.

Drink : Again, this is always our electrolyte flavoured water - not the most appetising or palatable on a cold day I admit, but we've got used to it now. We're not fans of thermos tea, coffee or soup but we do use a small burner and brew a hot drink once back at the car, or look forward to a cup of tea or hot chocolate by a fire at the end of a walk!

Other Bits :  We both take an invaluable sit mat with us which we bought for a fiver and which have been brilliant. It means you can take the weight off your feet if it's wet or cold, and they feel lovely and warm to sit on. It really has been some of the best money we've spent. We take a fully charged headtorch each which we've upgraded a couple of times now to really quite good ones. We've used them a few times and they've been invaluable. The first aid kit is always in the pack as mentioned, and we both have waterproof rucksack covers in slightly unappealing and eye watering colours (lime green and fluorescent yellow), but we reckon at least we'd be spotted in the gloom!

Obviously, there will be many bits and pieces personal to each person, but as a general rule, this is what we use, and we've never experienced any difficulties. 

IN the depth of winter

New Year, New You

At the beginning of each New Year, there is always that feeling of having to create a daunting list of resolutions; most of which will probably end up being discarded by the second week of January.

Making a roll call of things that involve a huge amount of commitment, expense, effort, time and energy make goals such as getting fit, losing weight, changing jobs, changing direction, moving house or whatever it might be, difficult to tackle and more difficult to know where or how to begin.

I have resolutely resolved not to make a single resolution this year, but have instead set a series of small, short and longer term goals and challenges to work on progressively throughout the year. Bro and I have always found having a longer term challenge or goal works well for us and makes us more determined and motivated to finish. We enjoy the satisfaction of completing something and it gives us an additional purpose. Not giving ourselves a time frame for the smaller goals takes away any pressure and helps us to enjoy them in our own time.

Small targets. Less pressure. More chance of success. Hopefully. 

Take a classic resolution - Getting Fit - which has to be near the top of most lists. Saying 'I'm going to aim to run two miles by February' seems to me to be too much pressure if you've never run before, and you may well not continue if it feels difficult, especially in the winter months. Instead, perhaps give yourself something to aim for, and plenty of time in which to do it. I once entered a simple 6K Race for Life and spent each spring evening building up my distance gradually and slowly as I had plenty of time and found I really enjoyed it.

So what can we do that takes the pressure off?

Instead of looking at the overall ‘I WANT TO GET FIT’ goal, break it down. Think about taking a simple walk once or twice a week to begin with. The NHS advocates 150 minutes of moderate exercise a week. That's just 35 minutes a day. I appreciate it's harder when it's cold and dark outside, but we've been walking after work with a headtorch and it makes a simple walk much more interesting and more enjoyable. We then take longer walks on days off or at the weekend. Alternatively, start in the spring when the clocks have gone forward and it feels more comfortable walking in the daylight. Our intention is to maintain our fitness by walking every day where possible, and so far, we've been doing this diligently. The cold air is bracing and I find it's refreshing after a day indoors with the fan heater (at work) or central heating (at home). It has also cleared catarrh in my throat and chest which is lingering a little after a second, albeit very mild, dose of Covid just before Christmas. 

As time goes on, and if you feel you're enjoying it, increase either the time or distance (or both) on your twice weekly walk, or try walking perhaps three or four times a week. Spring is a beautiful time to walk and there are so many gorgeous distractions - flowers, birdsong, running water, budding trees - that you won't notice how far or for how long you're walking. Build the walks up until you walk every day and it becomes a habit. Believe me, you will get to the point that you either feel guilty about not going out, or grouchy if you don't have your daily outdoor exercise! 

Try walking a little faster. This is something we have been doing on shorter walks and it really makes a difference to strength and stamina. Our walking pace has increased, stamina is maintained and muscles toned. I've always had a little private and personal challenge over the years of keeping up with Bro who walks fast, and I now can, which is satisfying.

Don't just walk on the flat. Find and climb or walk up hills, even if it's a road in your town, village or housing estate. If it's a small hill or slope, try jogging up it, just to get your heart rate up. Climb or run up the stairs at work, in the shopping centre or in the car park. Walk on a mixtures of different terrains to increase muscle tone and improve balance and stability.

Try mixing walking with a little running. Having spent most of last year trying to increase our walking speed, we now intersperse bursts of running with walking to increase our heart rates.

Last year, we also mixed our daily walking with cycling for more of a cardio workout. We favour mountain bikes and it's hard work, but ultimately enjoyable and it certainly feels like more of a workout! Again, we increased our distances throughout the year. Stopping half way to brew a hot drink in the winter makes it even more enjoyable.

If you don’t want to exercise alone or generally prefer company, think about a doing a walk or run for charity, or a park run. Join a walking, running or cycling group for motivation as well as the social side. We meet friends for a long walk and lunch afterwards which is lovely and you don’t realise how far you’re walking when you’re chatting! You could go geocaching which makes a walk you’ve done lots of times more interesting. We found all the caches in our area and it was good fun.

There are lots of other ways to introduce exercise. Get off the bus a stop earlier, walk or cycle to work if you can, get someone to drop you off slightly further away, walk to the local shop, go for a walk or run in your lunch break, jog back to the car park, move around the office more, offer to take the post or get the coffee - there are so many ways we can work that 35 minutes of exercise into our daily lives, possibly without even really noticing. We recorded three quarters of a mile just doing the weekly food shop! 

These are all outdoor activities as they are what we enjoy, but equally you may choose to visit a gym, go swimming, play badminton or squash or use a running machine or exercise bike at home if you prefer to be indoors. 

Whatever you do, do try and stick at it and before you know it, your fitness levels will have increased and you'll hopefully be more energised and perhaps more motivated. You may then start to walk longer, faster, further and higher, run further and faster, jog more comfortably and easily or cycle miles without stopping.

Who knows what you could be doing by this time next year?!

Christmas Reads

As I’ve done before, I thought I would do a quick round up of some of the outdoor books I’ve enjoyed this year, and which might make good presents for Christmas.

Lost in the Lakes by Tom Chesshyre

This is a fascinating book. On the face of it, I did wonder what more could be written about a walk around the Lakes, but there were lots of snippets, facts and bits of history I didn’t know about and found interesting. He takes his walk slowly, along the way interviewing local people for their opinions on a range of relevant topics or discussing their life and work in the busiest of our national parks, as well as describing the beautiful scenery around him. He doesn’t spend his time climbing all the fells, but journeys by some of the lower level paths, and this provides a different viewpoint of this beautiful area.

36 Islands by Robert Twigger

The author has a fascination for three things; Arthur Ransome, islands and the Lake District. In this entertaining book, these are all married together as he sets off in his in his inflatable canoe to visit all the tiny islands situated in the Lakes’ lakes. A voyage of discovery to places few venture, it is an interesting read about these tiny areas that seem to be overlooked, both figuratively and literally.

Wild Fell by Lee Schofield

Lee Schofield works for RSPB Haweswater in the Lake District and, with his team, oversees the running of two sheep farms in the valley with a view to bringing the area, ecologically, back to life. It’s a lovely story of hard work, rewilding, redirecting watercourses, finding rare wild flowers, restoring wetlands, woodlands and meadows and being inspired by work taking place in Norway and Scotland. He has encountered some resistance to change, but he tries valiantly to strike a balance between new practices and respecting the old way of doing things. It’s a really positive, uplifting book about positive and uplifting work that is bringing a small corner of the Lake District back to life again.

Touching the Void by Joe Simpson

This is a mountain classic and if you haven’t read it, I would highly recommend you do. I won’t spoil the plot by even summarising it, but it’s an incredible, gripping story of impossibly difficult decisions, determination through adversity and almost superhuman survival instincts. Brutally raw and emotional, this is a fascinating read about the strength of the human spirit.

Solo by Jenny Tough

I find, as I look through my bookshelves, that I don’t read as many books by women, as by men, surprisingly, and I’m not sure why. This was a Christmas present and I’ve now read it twice, finding it utterly absorbing and totally inspiring. Jenny Tough, an endurance runner, sets herself a challenge to run some of the world’s great mountain ranges, alone and having never done anything like it before. These aren’t small mountains either; think the Andes, Rockies and Atlas mountains, among others. She is brutally honest, not hiding how she feels when she’s hurting, frightened, feeling unwell or unwilling to carry on, and she often ponders on why she’s doing it. I could feel her nervousness and anxiety at times and it made me feel nervous and anxious. I became totally involved with her and her journey and was disappointed when I finished reading that there wasn’t more. Really well written and a real achievement.

Time on Rock by Anna Fleming

This was another Christmas present and, as with Solo, shortlisted by the Kendal Literary Festival last year. I also really enjoyed this book, and loved the narrative of how it feels to climb as a woman. Slightly reminiscent of Nan Shepherd’s The Living Mountain, this tells the story of Anna’s journey from novice to confident climber and the appreciation of the landscape around her when she is climbing. Divided by climbing region, (the Peak District, Yorkshire, Wales etc), she explains the challenges of a woman climbing; how it feels, her fears, the demands, her self discovery and her joy. A lovely story and well worth reading.

All that remains is wish everyone a very healthy and Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Autumn Equinox in the Peak District

We took advantage of a few days off in mid September to have another short break in the Peak District, with a view to climbing the last three of the nine Edges, and also a couple of the Ethels (all the peaks over 400m of which we’ve now climbed 10 out of 95!) Before checking in to our hotel, we wandered up onto beautiful Stanton Moor on the Autumn Equinox, encountering lots of people celebrating around the Nine Ladies stone circle which sits in pretty woodland. We also visited Cromford Moor and explored nearby Black Rocks with its lovely views.

We stayed one night just outside Matlock, which made climbing Gardoms Edge simple, although the rain made it slightly less enjoyable and the views misty. After coming back down, we went straight up onto Birchen Edge from the same car park, the rain clearing to leave an overcast but mild morning. We walked the length of the edge to the Nelson memorial and found the names of three of his ships carved into three large gritstone rocks just opposite the memorial. It was then a pleasant walk back through woodland, under the edge.

That afternoon, we decided to climb Derwent Edge as the weather had brightened up considerably, although it was breezy. The walk from a small layby just off the Sheffield to Snake Pass road, started from Cutthroat Bridge and was gentle and straightforward, the views stunning. In summer, the whole area would have been ablaze with heather and the views were far reaching and wonderful. As we reached the Wheel Stones it began to drizzle again, so we decided to head back, taking a different path and trying to cut a corner back to the bridge which (as it usually does), ended with us crossing some very uneven and marshy terrain which inevitably took far longer…

We then moved to a lovely hotel close to Froggatt Edge for two nights and with that, the weather improved dramatically, with warm sun and clear blue skies. We walked the full length of stunning Froggatt Edge, starting early in the morning up through woodland and past a tiny stone circle to the end of Froggatt where it joins Curbar Edge. These two edges are definitely our favourites and the views were staggeringly beautiful, although very windy at times, but still wonderfully warm. We strolled back and enjoyed lunch sitting outside at the National Trust’s Longshaw Estate cafe, which was beautiful. That afternoon, we explored Padley Gorge; a lovely, cool, quiet and bosky woodland, looking for millstones.

Our final morning was spent exploring Millstone Edge which we had completely to ourselves. For very little effort, there were the most amazing views in all directions. We saw several grouse just ahead of us on the path, beautiful gritstone rock formations, some of which had been carved into animals, and several abandoned millstones. Our final stop before joining the motorway was Haddon Hall, somewhere I’d visited about 30 years ago, but Bro had never been. We marvelled at this stunning house from the Middle Ages with its original furnishings and gorgeous, flower filled gardens, and spent some time sitting in the sun admiring the views.

It really is possible to fit so much into a short break in this beautiful area. We have grown to love the Peak District and will definitely be visiting again in 2024.

Castles, mills and cloud inversions

Our final visits of the year to the Lakes were in October and November, for a week each time. The weather in October was perfect and we had what we considered to be one of our most interesting weeks. We stayed on the west coast, just outside Whitehaven from where we climbed Dent and Flat Fell on a sublimely warm and sunny day, walking up through tangy smelling spruce woods to Dent’s pretty summit, before dropping down into two tiny hidden valleys, then climbing up on to Flat Fell with its coastal views. We climbed Ponsonby Fell up through the lovely Blengdale Forest, seeing only two people all day and marvelled at the views of the Screes from such a different viewpoint. We re-visited St Bees in time for a beautiful sunset and wandered round Eamont and Whitehaven’s harbour.

On a day of not climbing, we drove to Nether Wasdale and walked to the foot of Wast Water through Low Wood and were rewarded with the most spectacular view of the Screes and the head of Wasdale, and again, had it all to ourselves. Walking back through beautiful pastoral landscape was made more interesting by the discovery of tiny, ancient bridges and delightful old cottages. Our next stop was the lovely Boot Inn in Eskdale, catching the tail end of Storm Babet, which meant our climb up to Boat Howe was very windy indeed and sent us staggering on the exposed summit! A quick look round Burnmoor Lodge by the tarn and exploring three stone circles and several old shepherd huts made the return journey very interesting. We also spent a couple of hours at the wonderful Eskdale Mill in Boot; a tiny corn mill dating from the 16th century and about as authentic as it’s possible to find. Having it to ourselves made it more special and it was fascinating.

We then moved on to Ravenglass, to a hotel right on the waterfront with the most beautiful sunsets over the estuary from our bedroom window. We spent the morning at Muncaster Castle, watching the birds of prey and having a very entertaining guided tour. The views back down towards Wasdale from the castle’s high vantage point were gorgeous.

Our final morning saw us up and out early to climb Stainton Fell and The Knott lying across the valley, almost opposite Muncaster Castle. The weather had deteriorated and it was very windy and very cold, with more than a hint of rain to come. As we climbed higher, the wind hit us like a freight train and cold, although light, rain was flung in our faces like needles. We decided not to climb Stainton Fell as it was a long way on, the ground was saturated and the paths were either indistinct or non existent. Being close to the coast, we had the views, but the walk was not the most enjoyable as the wind made even talking difficult. We reached the summit after a fairly circuitous route involving some clambering over walls and through streams, but the wind was so strong we began to get really cold as we tried to force down an energy bar. It dropped as we dropped, but we can’t say that was one of the most enjoyable walks we’ve done!

In November, we treated ourselves to our second stay in a beautiful ‘penthouse’ flat in Ambleside. We loved it so much last year, that we booked it again and loved the warmth, comfort and central location. This was our chance to savour those areas in the ‘middle’ of the Lake District which we love and that we’d missed during the year, staying out on the edges as we continue to climb the Outlying Fells. We climbed eight fells in two walks, happy to make them longer, and then relax a little in between. The first walk was part of the Bannisdale Horseshoe and took in Lamb Pasture, The Forest, White Howe and Long Crag, The weather was fine; sunny but frosty and very cold as we started, and we knew rain was forecast for mid morning, so we were ready in full waterproofs. The walk was long but straightforward, although the climb up to The Forest was much steeper than anticipated. The promised rain thankfully began much later than predicted, and we were well on our way back, although it still entailed a solid two hours of walking in heavy rain. Thankfully in our wet weather gear, we stayed warm and dry.

We then spent a day relaxing as Storm Debi hit and the rain was utterly torrential and, having been out briefly first thing, we enjoyed being in the flat. The next day we drove to Keswick for a look round and lunch, then walked in light rain up to Castlehead where the most staggering view of Derwentwater was laid out in front of us, swathed in mist, with weak sun breaking through the cloud every so often. We hadn’t been up there before and will definitely return when the weather is better. The following day saw us walking round Rydal Water, up to Rydal Caves and on to Loughrigg Terrace with our cousins before lunch at The Swan Grasmere, which was lovely and good to see them.

A day in and around Ambleside preceded our final walk, saved for the last day of the week when sun and clear skies were forecast. We parked in Staveley and set off up to Nameless Potter Fell 1, Brunt Knott, Nameless Potter Fell 2 and Ulgraves. Accompanying us first thing was the most spectacular and perfect cloud inversion; something we’ve waited about 16 years to see and it was utterly stunning and totally spellbinding. The cloud and mist seemed to follow us from peak to peak, but we were always just ahead of it, in the sun and it only disippated around lunchtime. The walking was easy, the views were gorgeous and we really enjoyed this set of fells, especially the views of the Howgills from Ulgraves. A walk back past Gurnal Dubs and Potter Tarn and through an old mill, now a tiny farm built in 1542 was lovely, as was a chat with the lady clearing the farm’s yard of leaves.

All in all, two lovely weeks despite (or in some cases because of) the weather, leaving us with 34 fells to go to complete the Outlying Fells challenge!

Walking in Mayrhofen

I was lucky enough to have a work trip at the beginning of July, and it was just the sort of trip I would choose. I hadn't been to the Austrian Tyrol before, so went with no expectations and an open mind. What I found was beyond everything I'd hoped it would be.

Sitting in the beautiful Zillertal Valley, the little town of Mayrhofen was delightful; pretty, quaint, lively and bustling and ringed on all sides by mountains that looked huge and impenetrable. The traditional chalet style hotels were beautiful; all with wooden balconies and each painted and flower bedecked. They were at once unique and comfortable. Staff in traditional dress were always ready with a smile and a greeting, and the food they served was good quality, substantial and plentiful.

The main draw, certainly for me anyway, were the views which were all, without exception, staggeringly beautiful. Range after range of peaks appeared as you travelled higher, some still snow capped even in the height of summer, until you saw the glaciers. The air was pure, clean and fresh and the profusion of wildflowers, especially deep pink azaleas, were so beautiful to see. Water was crystal clear, cold and a wonderful glacial aquamarine in colour.

The mountains themselves were spectacular; high, jagged, forest clad and incredibly steep, but a series of cable cars and gondolas sped us upwards smoothly and comfortably. Walking trails to suit all abilities began as soon as we alighted, all graded from easy to difficult, and there were miles to choose from.

On our first day, we took a long, steep cable car up to Mount Ahorn, a winter skiing area, and found ourselves in a flower filled alpine meadow with grazing cows, a small 200 year old farmstead and a series of pools where children played and adults cooled their feet. A further 800 or so feet of climbing up the Filzenkogel felt like a real achievement in the heat of the afternoon, standing on the summit at 7372 feet!

Day two saw us travelling to the end of the Ziller Valley to take a hike up to the Bichalm Hintertux chalet, after travelling to Hintertux in the Tux mountains. Winding up through pine woods, we emerged out onto open hillside where marmots whistled at us in alarm, reaching the lovely wooden chalet after about an hour. Sitting on the balcony, surrounded by red geraniums and views of the Hintertux Glacier, we enjoyed freshly made apple strudel, before making our way back down and on to the lovely Kessel Waterfall.

The next day we walked from the top of the sublime Stillup Valley along the Waterfall Trail which was achingly beautiful, dotted as it was with small farms, herds of caramel coloured cows with their softly chiming bells, palomino ponies and a chance to chat to people from all walks of life along the way. Mountain huts and small cafes were a regular sight on the trail, which provided a welcome chance to try delicious home made strudels, cakes, sandwiches and gulp down much needed drinks. The remainder of the afternoon was spent in the lovely pool at our hotel, the Kramerwirt, with its mountain views.

Our last morning was a little overcast as we took two gondolas up to the summit of the Penken mountain at over 6000 feet, for lovely views down into the Zillertal Valley. It was cooler on the summit, so we enjoyed hot chocolate in the conviviality of one of the lovely ski chalets, before gliding down again accompanied by the most stunning views.

We left the next morning, taking the scenic route to Innsbruck Airport, after what had been a wonderful trip to a magical destination with a lovely group of ladies; somewhere, I am sure I shall be returning to very soon.

Perfect Peak District

 Mid June saw us in the Peak District once again, enjoying a wonderful week of walking. The weather, which had been fearsomely hot in the preceding weeks, thankfully cooled and we had perfect clear blue skies every day, except for the first morning. 

This was going to be a week of dipping into lots of things, rather than focussing on two or three long walks. We stayed in Buxton as neither of us had been there before, and so had new areas to explore. On our first morning in the rain, we climbed up to Solomon's Temple on Grin Low Hill which was lovely, with the rain easing as we wandered back down through heathland and mixed woodland. After a cup of coffee, we headed up onto Burbage Edge in the Goyt Valley, again overlooking Buxton, where the National Park boundary runs right over the summit. Unfortunately, the rain started in earnest once we were at the trig point, so we hurried down again, soaking wet. In the afternoon, we decided to visit the wonderful Lyme Park and thoroughly enjoyed the stunning house and grounds.

The next day found us back in the Dark Peak early, to walk Upper Burbage Edge, one of the nine gritstone edges. Originally planning to just walk this edge, the day was so beautiful and the views so stunning that we carried on to the end, then climbed up onto Lower Burbage Edge as well, before walking back through the valley, which was a delight. We then headed down to the peace and stillness of Stanage End to look for the iconic abandoned millstones which are so redolent of the Peak District, and in fact form the logo of the national park. To our delight, we found five, one lying flat making the perfect table for lunch and a coffee brew in stunning surroundings! After lunch, we’d planned to walk on Froggatt Edge, but a road closure and long detour meant Curbar Edge was more convenient. This turned out to be absolutely sublime in the warm afternoon sun, with the most wonderful panoramas. We spent a long time sitting in the sun with our boots and socks off, enjoying the views. I think this is our favourite edge so far.

The Roaches was our next objective the following day, in the Staffordshire Peak District; a completely new area for us. Climbing up through bracken and a small Scots Pine wood, we emerged onto the wide flat plateau which was dotted with tiny pine trees, heather and weather worn rock formations. We ambled along to the pretty Doxey Pool where we sat for a while watching swallows swooping down to drink and catch insects. Deciding not to walk the whole ridge, we meandered back southwards, enjoying the sun and the magnificent views of the Leek Valley before scrambling down the large rocks at the end of the ridge, which was very enjoyable. Joining a path at the bottom, we headed back, watching groups of children learning to climb and paused to consider tackling the dramatic looking Hen Cloud, but decided to leave that for another visit. Instead, we drove the 20 minutes or so to a small parking area at Gradbach for the walk to Lud's Church; a secluded gorge that has been used as a place of worship since pagan times. It was very warm and after a welcome cup of coffee at the tiny Riverside Cafe, we set off through the welcome cool of Back Woods before climbing steeply up and following a path than wound gradually and gently up through the trees for perhaps a mile or two. We soon came to a fingerpost pointing to what looked like a rockfall, but was in fact the way down into the gorge and, after negotiating this slightly slippery route, found ourselves in an incredible cool, shady, fern filled gulley, about 18 metres deep. It was muddy underfoot, but opened out with the sun filtering soft green light into the depths. We walked for perhaps 100 metres to a series of roughly cut stone steps leading up and back into the woodland, but the path down was closed, so we retraced our steps, walking the length of the gorge again before leaving at our entrance point. It was mesmerising and unique. We made a quick stop on a shady outcrop of rocks in the woods for lunch, before heading back.

We then moved on to Bakewell for a couple of nights, and were out early, parking at Ladybower Reservoir to climb Win Hill; prominent from almost everywhere in the Hope Valley area. We crossed Ladybower dam, slightly intimidated by the two huge 'plugholes' or shaft spillways, then began climbing up through a lovely shady pine woodland. The path rose very gently up through the woods to a slightly steeper section just before the treeline, when we crossed open fellside and climbed the last rocky knoll to the summit. The views were beautiful in all directions; to Edale and Mam Tor, down to Ladybower and across to Baslow Edge. We had the top to ourselves for half an hour before others began to appear from different directions, so we made our way back down. We spent the afternoon wandering around Bakewell which was stunning with the most beautiful displays of flowers, strolling by the river and exploring the back streets.

We had a lazy morning the next day, then a walk round Bakewell again, which was busy and buzzy as it was a Saturday and there was a dance festival taking place. We had arranged to meet friends in Buxton where we had a walk around the lovely Pavilion Gardens before drinks, a meal and then a talk from 17 time Everest summiteer, Kenton Cool, about the history of Everest climbing expeditions at the Pavilion Gardens, which was fascinating if a little warm!

Our final morning saw us leaving Bakewell and calling in to Hardwick Hall for a visit before setting off back down the M1. I'd been before a couple of times about 30 years ago but couldn't really recall much about it, and Bro had never been. It was gorgeous and the gardens were particularly stunning with flowers and flowering shrubs in profusion. The house was a fascinating example of Elizabethan architecture.

We've grown to really love the Peak District, and will be returning very soon.

Upper burbage edge

millstones at stanage end

the leek valley from the roaches

stunning views from curbar edge

curbar edge

A short break in Oslo

In May we decided to take a short break to Oslo. I'd been to Norway before to the Fjords, but Bro had never been. 

We stayed near the National Theatre which turned out to be a slightly quieter area than the more centrally located hotels, although there was a fair bit of revelry on Friday and Saturday nights as people enjoyed themselves. On our first day, we visited Bygdoy - an area of the city reached by water taxi and where there are a number of museums clustered quite closely together, so, you can visit as many as you wish without travelling too far between each one. We went first to the open air Norsk Folkemuseum with its 160 traditional buildings including a beautiful stave church which was the highlight for us. A quick bus ride (all included in our Oslo Pass) took us to the Fram Museum about 10 minutes away which we found absolutely fascinating and has been voted the Best Museum in Norway; certainly one of the best we’ve been to. Telling the history of polar exploration, The Fram was the ship in which Nansen explored the Arctic and Roald Amundsen took to the South Pole in the race to beat Captain Scott. We then crossed the road to the Kon-Tiki Museum which has Thor Heyerdahl's bamboo raft and details of his Ra and Kon-Tiki expeditions which was also fascinating. Finally, we explored the National Maritime Museum and saw wonderful Viking longships.

The next day we decided to have a walk in a proper Norwegian pine forest, as it's something we've always wanted to do and love them in this country. We took a metro train up to Nordmarka, the vast forest of the northern wilderness, where we found ourselves in thick snow! It wasn't cold, so we followed a path through the pine trees on compacted snow, surrounded by local cross country skiiers. It was stunning, with views down over the city and out across the Fjord. The afternoon was spent by the busy harbour and exploring the Akershus Fortress and grounds.

Our third day saw us up and out early to take a wonderfully smooth, quiet and relaxing two hour cruise round Oslofjord on an amazing electric boat. On calm, blue-green water we saw hundreds of tiny coloured summer houses dotting the shoreline, with lovely views back to the city. It was so peaceful and soothing that we almost fell asleep!  On our return we walked all the way round to the Oslo Opera House and went up and onto its amazing (and quite steep) roof for wonderful views. After an hour or so, we followed the water line all the way round to the harbour again, visiting the Civic Hall with its Norse mythology carvings, then up to Royal Palace and wandering round the pretty parkland. 

Our final morning was spent in the Vigeland Sculpture Park, home to the largest collection of sculptures in the world by a single artist (Gustav Vigeland). It was lovely and warm and quiet, with hardly anyone around that early, apart from a few commuters speeding along on their bikes.

Oslo is a beautiful fresh, light, bright, clean and ecofriendly city. Most of the cars, buses and boats are electric, scooters and bikes are the preferred mode of transport and everyone speaks flawless English. It is expensive, especially to eat and drink out, but you can find places away from the main drags where prices are more reasonable. 

STAVE CHURCH

THE FRAM

WALKING IN NORWEGIAN PINE FORESTS

CRUISING OSLOFJORD